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Rheidol； which runs there through a horrid kind of a place。 The
bridge is called Pont yr Offeiriad； or the Parson's Bridge； because
in the old time the clergyman passed over it every Sunday to do
duty in the church here。〃
〃Why is this place called Ysbytty Cynfyn？〃 said I； 〃which means the
hospital of the first boundary； is there a hospital of the second
boundary near here？〃
〃I can't say anything about boundaries； your honour； all I know is；
that there is another Spytty farther on beyond Hafod called Ysbytty
Ystwyth； or the 'Spytty upon the Ystwyth。 But to return to the
matter of the Minister's Bridge： I would counsel your honour to go
and see that bridge before you leave these parts。 A vast number of
gentry go to see it in the summer time。 It was the bridge which
the landlord was mentioning last night； though it scarcely belongs
to his district； being quite as near the Devil's Bridge inn as it
is to his own； your honour。〃
We went on discoursing for about half a mile farther； when；
stopping by a road which branched off to the hills on the left； my
companion said。 〃I must now wish your honour good day； being
obliged to go a little way up here to a mining work on a small bit
of business； my son； however； and his dog Joe will show your honour
the way to the Devil's Bridge； as they are bound to a place a
little way past it。 I have now but one word to say； which is； that
should ever your honour please to visit me at my mine； your honour
shall receive every facility for inspecting the works； and moreover
have a bellyful of drink and victuals from Jock Greaves； miner from
the county of Durham。〃
I shook the honest fellow by the hand； and went on in company with
the lad John and his dog as far as the Devil's Bridge。 John was a
highly…intelligent lad； spoke Welsh and English fluently； could
read； as he told me； both languages； and had some acquaintance with
the writings of Twm o'r Nant； as he showed by repeating the
following lines of the carter poet； certainly not the worst which
he ever wrote：…
〃Twm or Nant mae cant a'm galw；
Tomas Edwards yw fy enw；〃
Tom O Nant is a nickname I've got；
My name's Thomas Edwards； I wot。〃
CHAPTER LXXXIV
The Hospice … The Two Rivers … The Devil's Bridge … Pleasant
Recollections。
I ARRIVED at the Devil's Bridge at about eleven o'clock of a fine
but cold day； and took up my quarters at the inn； of which I was
the sole guest during the whole time that I continued there； for
the inn； standing in a lone； wild district； has very few guests
except in summer； when it is thronged with tourists； who avail
themselves of that genial season to view the wonders of Wales； of
which the region close by is considered amongst the principal。
The inn； or rather hospice … for the sounding name of hospice is
more applicable to it than the common one of inn … was built at a
great expense by the late Duke of Newcastle。 It is an immense
lofty cottage with projecting eaves； and has a fine window to the
east which enlightens a stately staircase and a noble gallery。 It
fronts the north； and stands in the midst of one of the most
remarkable localities in the world； of which it would require a far
more vigorous pen than mine to convey an adequate idea。
Far to the west is a tall； strange…looking hill； the top of which
bears no slight resemblance to that of a battlemented castle。 This
hill； which is believed to have been in ancient times a stronghold
of the Britons； bears the name of Bryn y Castell； or the hill of
the castle。 To the north…west are russet hills； to the east two
brown paps； whilst to the south is a high； swelling mountain。 To
the north； and just below the hospice； is a profound hollow with
all the appearance of the crater of an extinct volcano； at the
bottom of this hollow the waters of two rivers unite； those of the
Rheidol from the north； and those of the Afon y Mynach； or the
Monks' River； from the south…east。 The Rheidol； falling over a
rocky precipice at the northern side of the hollow； forms a
cataract very pleasant to look upon from the middle upper window of
the inn。 Those of the Mynach which pass under the celebrated
Devil's Bridge are not visible； though they generally make
themselves heard。 The waters of both； after uniting； flow away
through a romantic glen towards the west。 The sides of the hollow；
and indeed of most of the ravines in the neighbourhood； which are
numerous； are beautifully clad with wood。
Penetrate now into the hollow above which the hospice stands。 You
descend by successive flights of steps； some of which are very
slippery and insecure。 On your right is the Monks' River； roaring
down its dingle in five successive falls； to join its brother the
Rheidol。 Each of the falls has its own peculiar basin； one or two
of which are said to be of awful depth。 The length which these
falls with their basins occupy is about five hundred feet。 On the
side of the basin of the last but one is the cave； or the site of
the cave； said to have been occupied in old times by the Wicked
Children … the mysterious Plant de Bat … two brothers and a sister；
robbers and murderers。 At present it is nearly open on every side；
having； it is said； been destroyed to prevent its being the haunt
of other evil people。 There is a tradition in the country that the
fall at one time tumbled over its mouth。 This tradition； however；
is evidently without foundation； as from the nature of the ground
the river could never have run but in its present channel。 Of all
the falls； the fifth or last is the most considerable： you view it
from a kind of den； to which the last flight of steps； the
ruggedest and most dangerous of all； has brought you。 Your
position here is a wild one。 The fall； which is split into two； is
thundering beside you； foam； foam； foam is flying all about you；
the basin or cauldron is boiling frightfully below you； hirsute
rocks are frowning terribly above you； and above them forest trees；
dank and wet with spray and mist； are distilling drops in showers
from their boughs。
But where is the bridge； the celebrated bridge of the Evil Man？
From the bottom of the first flight of steps leading down into the
hollow you see a modern…looking bridge； bestriding a deep chasm or
cleft to the south…east； near the top of the dingle of the Monks'
River； over it lies the road to Pont Erwyd。 That； however； is not
the Devil's Bridge； but about twenty feet below that bridge； and
completely overhung by it； don't you see a shadowy； spectral
object； something like a bow； which likewise bestrides the chasm？
You do！ Well； that shadowy； spectral object is the celebrated
Devil's Bridge； or； as the timorous peasants of the locality call
it； the Pont y Gwr Drwg。 It is now merely preserved as an object
of curiosity； the bridge above being alone used for transit； and is
quite inaccessible except to birds and the climbing wicked boys of
the neighbourhood； who sometimes at the risk of their lives
contrive to get upon it from the frightfully steep northern bank；
and snatch a fear