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myself in the suburbs of Swansea。 As I passed under what appeared
to be a railroad bridge I inquired in Welsh of an ancient…looking
man； in coaly habiliments； if it was one。 He answered in the same
language that it was； then instantly added in English：…
〃You have taken your last farewell of Wales； sir； it's no use
speaking Welsh farther on。〃
I passed some immense edifices； probably manufactories； and was
soon convinced that； whether I was in Wales or not； I was no longer
amongst Welsh。 The people whom I met did not look like Welsh。
They were taller and bulkier than the Cambrians； and were speaking
a dissonant English jargon。 The women had much the appearance of
Dutch fisherwomen； some of them were carrying huge loads on their
heads。 I spoke in Welsh to two or three whom I overtook。
〃No Welsh； sir！〃
〃Why don't you speak Welsh？〃 said I。
〃Because we never learnt it。 We are not Welsh。〃
〃Who are you then？〃
〃English； some calls us Flamings。〃
〃Ah； ah！〃 said I to myself； 〃I had forgot。〃
Presently I entered the town； a large； bustling； dirty； gloomy
place； and inquiring for the first hotel； was directed to the
〃Mackworth Arms；〃 in Wine Street。
As soon as I was shown into the parlour I summoned the 〃boots；〃 and
on his making his appearance I said in a stern voice： 〃My boots
want soling； let them be done by to…morrow morning。〃
〃Can't be； sir； it's now Saturday afternoon； the shoemaker couldn't
begin them to…night！〃
〃But you must make him！〃 said I； 〃and look here； I shall give him a
shilling extra； and you an extra shilling for seeing after him。〃
〃Yes； sir； I'll see after him … they shall be done； sir。 Bring you
your slippers instantly。 Glad to see you again in Swansea； sir；
looking so well。〃
CHAPTER CI
Swansea … The Flemings … Towards England。
SWANSEA is called by the Welsh Abertawe； which signifies the mouth
of the Tawy。 Aber； as I have more than once had occasion to
observe； signifies the place where a river enters into the sea or
joins another。 It is a Gaelic as well as a Cumric word； being
found in the Gaelic names Aberdeen and Lochaber； and there is good
reason for supposing that the word harbour is derived from it。
Swansea or Swansey is a compound word of Scandinavian origin； which
may mean either a river abounding with swans； or the river of
Swanr； the name of some northern adventurer who settled down at its
mouth。 The final ea or ey is the Norwegian aa； which signifies a
running water； it is of frequent occurrence in the names of rivers
in Norway； and is often found； similarly modified； in those of
other countries where the adventurous Norwegians formed
settlements。
Swansea first became a place of some importance shortly after the
beginning of the twelfth century。 In the year 1108； the greater
part of Flanders having been submerged by the sea （19） an immense
number of Flemings came over to England； and entreated of Henry the
First the king then occupying the throne； that he would all allot
to them lands in which they might settle； The king sent them to
various parts of Wales； which had been conquered by his barons or
those of his predecessors： a considerable number occupied Swansea
and the neighbourhood； but far the greater part went to Dyfed；
generally but improperly called Pembroke； the south…eastern part of
which； by far the most fertile； they entirely took possession of；
leaving to the Welsh the rest； which is very mountainous and
barren。
I have already said that the people of Swansea stand out in broad
distinctness from the Cumry； differing from them in stature；
language； dress； and manners； and wished to observe that the same
thing may be said of the inhabitants of every part of Wales which
the Flemings colonised in any considerable numbers。
I found the accommodation very good at the 〃Mackworth Arms〃； I
passed the Saturday evening very agreeably； and slept well
throughout the night。 The next morning to my great joy I found my
boots； capitally repaired； awaiting me before my chamber door。 Oh
the mighty effect of a little money！ After breakfast I put them
on； and as it was Sunday went out in order to go to church。 The
streets were thronged with people； a new mayor had just been
elected； and his worship； attended by a number of halbert and
javelin men； was going to church too。 I followed the procession；
which moved with great dignity and of course very slowly。 The
church had a high square tower； and looked a very fine edifice on
the outside； and no less so within； for the nave was lofty with
noble pillars on each side。 I stood during the whole of the
service as did many others； for the congregation was so great that
it was impossible to accommodate all with seats。 The ritual was
performed in a very satisfactory manner； and was followed by an
excellent sermon。 I am ashamed to say that have forgot the text；
but I remember a good deal of the discourse。 The preacher said
amongst other thing that the Gospel was not preached in vain； and
that he very much doubted whether a sermon was ever delivered which
did not do some good。 On the conclusion of the service I strolled
about in order to see the town and what pertained to it。 The town
is of considerable size； with some remarkable edifices； spacious
and convenient quays； and a commodious harbour into which the river
Tawy flowing from the north empties itself。 The town and harbour
are overhung on the side of the east by a lofty green mountain with
a Welsh name； no doubt exceedingly appropriate； but which I regret
to say has escaped my memory。
After having seen all that I wished； I returned to my inn and
discharged all my obligations。 I then departed； framing my course
eastward towards England； having traversed Wales nearly from north
to south。
CHAPTER CII
Leave Swansea … The Pandemonium … Neath Abbey … Varied Scenery。
IT was about two o'clock of a dull and gloomy afternoon when I
started from Abertawy or Swansea； intending to stop at Neath； some
eight miles distant。 As I passed again through the suburbs I was
struck with their length and the evidences of enterprise which they
exhibited … enterprise； however； evidently chiefly connected with
iron and coal； for almost every object looked awfully grimy。
Crossing a bridge I proceeded to the east up a broad and spacious
valley； the eastern side of which was formed by russet…coloured
hills； through a vista of which I could descry a range of tall blue
mountains。 As I proceeded I sometimes passed pleasant groves and
hedgerows； sometimes huge works； in this valley there was a
singular mixture of nature and art； of the voices of birds and the
clanking of chains； of the mists of heaven and the smoke of
furnaces。
I reached Llan… ； a small village half…way between Swansea and
Neath； and without stopping continued my course； walking very fast。
I had surmounted a hill； and had nearly descended that side of it
which looked towards the east； having on my left； that is to the
north； a wooded height； when an extraordinary scene presented
itself to