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the shore； and I thought I had never beheld a more beautiful and
tranquil scene。
I went on。 The country which had hitherto been very beautiful；
abounding with yellow corn…fields； became sterile and rocky； there
were stone walls； but no hedges。 I passed by a moor on my left；
then a moory hillock on my right； the way was broken and stony； all
traces of the good roads of Wales had disappeared； the habitations
which I saw by the way were miserable hovels into and out of which
large sows were stalking； attended by their farrows。
〃Am I far from Llanfair？〃 said I to a child。
〃You are in Llanfair； gentleman；〃 said the child。
A desolate place was Llanfair。 The sea in the neighbourhood to the
south； limekilns with their stifling smoke not far from me。 I sat
down on a little green knoll on the right…hand side of the road； a
small house was near me； and a desolate…looking mill at about a
furlong's distance； to the south。 Hogs came about me grunting and
sniffing。 I felt quite melancholy。
〃Is this the neighbourhood of the birth…place of Gronwy Owen？〃 said
I to myself。 〃No wonder that he was unfortunate through life；
springing from such a region of wretchedness。〃
Wretched as the region seemed； however； I soon found there were
kindly hearts close by me。
As I sat on the knoll I heard some one slightly cough very near me；
and looking to the left saw a man dressed like a miller looking at
me from the garden of the little house； which I have already
mentioned。
I got up and gave him the sele of the day in English。 He was a man
about thirty； rather tall than otherwise； with a very prepossessing
countenance。 He shook his head at my English。
〃What；〃 said I； addressing him in the language of the country；
〃have you no English？ Perhaps you have Welsh？〃
〃Plenty；〃 said he； laughing 〃there is no lack of Welsh amongst any
of us here。 Are you a Welshman？〃
〃No；〃 said I； 〃an Englishman from the far east of Lloegr。〃
〃And what brings you here？〃 said the man。
〃A strange errand；〃 I replied； 〃to look at the birth…place of a man
who has long been dead。〃
〃Do you come to seek for an inheritance？〃 said the man。
〃No；〃 said I。 〃Besides the man whose birth…place I came to see；
died poor； leaving nothing behind him but immortality。〃
〃Who was he？〃 said the miller。
〃Did you ever hear a sound of Gronwy Owen？〃 said I。
〃Frequently；〃 said the miller； 〃I have frequently heard a sound of
him。 He was born close by in a house yonder；〃 pointing to the
south。
〃Oh yes； gentleman；〃 said a nice…looking woman； who holding a
little child by the hand was come to the house…door； and was
eagerly listening； 〃we have frequently heard speak of Gronwy Owen；
there is much talk of him in these parts。〃
〃I am glad to hear it；〃 said I； 〃for I have feared that his name
would not be known here。〃
〃Pray； gentleman； walk in！〃 said the miller； 〃we are going to have
our afternoon's meal； and shall be rejoiced if you will join us。〃
〃Yes； do； gentleman；〃 said the miller's wife； for such the good
woman was； 〃and many a welcome shall you have。〃
I hesitated； and was about to excuse myself。
〃Don't refuse； gentleman！〃 said both； 〃surely you are not too proud
to sit down with us？〃
〃I am afraid I shall only cause you trouble；〃 said I。
〃Dim blinder； no trouble；〃 exclaimed both at once； 〃pray do walk
in！〃
I entered the house； and the kitchen； parlour； or whatever it was；
a nice little room with a slate floor。 They made me sit down at a
table by the window； which was already laid for a meal。 There was
a clean cloth upon it； a tea…pot； cups and saucers； a large plate
of bread…and…butter； and a plate； on which were a few very thin
slices of brown； watery cheese。
My good friends took their seats； the wife poured out tea for the
stranger and her husband； helped us both to bread…and…butter and
the watery cheese； then took care of herself。 Before； however； I
could taste the tea； the wife； seeming to recollect herself；
started up； and hurrying to a cupboard； produced a basin full of
snow…white lump sugar； and taking the spoon out of my hand； placed
two of the largest lumps in my cup； though she helped neither her
husband nor herself； the sugar…basin being probably only kept for
grand occasions。
My eyes filled with tears； for in the whole course of my life I had
never experienced so much genuine hospitality。 Honour to the
miller of Mona and his wife； and honour to the kind hospitable
Celts in general！ How different is the reception of this despised
race of the wandering stranger from that of …。 However； I am a
Saxon myself； and the Saxons have no doubt their virtues； a pity
that they should be all uncouth and ungracious ones！
I asked my kind host his name。
〃John Jones；〃 he replied； 〃Melinydd of Llanfair。〃
〃Is the mill which you work your own property？〃 I inquired。
〃No；〃 he answered； 〃I rent it of a person who lives close by。〃
〃And how happens it；〃 said I； 〃that you speak no English？〃
〃How should it happen；〃 said he； 〃that I should speak any？ I have
never been far from here； my wife who has lived at service at
Liverpool can speak some。〃
〃Can you read poetry？〃 said I。
〃I can read the psalms and hymns that they sing at our chapel；〃 he
replied。
〃Then you are not of the Church？〃 said I。
〃I am not；〃 said the miller； 〃I am a Methodist。〃
〃Can you read the poetry of Gronwy Owen？〃 said I。
〃I cannot；〃 said the miller； 〃that is with any comfort； his poetry
is in the ancient Welsh measures； which make poetry so difficult
that few can understand it。〃
〃I can understand poetry in those measures；〃 said I。
〃And how much time did you spend；〃 said the miller； 〃before you
could understand the poetry of the measures？〃
〃Three years；〃 said I。
The miller laughed。
〃I could not have afforded all that time；〃 said he； 〃to study the
songs of Gronwy。 However； it is well that some people should have
time to study them。 He was a great poet as I have been told； and
is the glory of our land … but he was unfortunate； I have read his
life in Welsh and part of his letters； and in doing so have shed
tears。〃
〃Has his house any particular name？〃 said I。
〃It is called sometimes Ty Gronwy；〃 said the miller； 〃but more
frequently Tafarn Goch。〃
〃The Red Tavern？〃 said I。 〃How is it that so many of your places
are called Goch？ there is Pentraeth Goch； there is Saint Pedair
Goch； and here at Llanfair is Tafarn Goch。〃
The miller laughed。
〃It will take a wiser man than I；〃 said he； 〃to answer that
question。〃
The repast over I rose up； gave my host thanks； and said； 〃I will
now leave you； and hunt up things connected with Gronwy。〃
〃And where will you find a lletty for night； gentleman？〃 said the
miller's wife。 〃This is a poor place； but if you will make use of
our home you are welcome。〃
〃I need not trouble you；〃 said I； 〃I return this night to Pentraeth
Goch where I shall sleep。〃
〃Well；〃 said the miller； 〃whilst you are at Llanfair I will
accompany you about。 Where shall we go to first？〃
〃Where is the church？〃 said I。 〃I should like to see the churc