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She fetched the key and away we went to the church。 It is a
venerable chapel…like edifice； with a belfry towards the west； the
roof sinking by two gradations； is lower at the eastern or altar
end； than at the other。 The girl； unlocking the door； ushered me
into the interior。
〃Which is the tomb of Tudor？〃 said I to the pretty damsel。
〃There it is； sir；〃 said she； pointing to the north side of the
church； 〃there is the tomb of Owen Tudor。〃
Beneath a low…roofed arch lay sculptured in stone on an altar tomb；
the figures of a man and woman； that of the man in armour； that of
the woman in graceful drapery。 The male figure lay next the wall。
〃And you think；〃 said I to the girl； 〃that yonder figure is that of
Owen Tudor？〃
〃Yes； sir；〃 said the girl； 〃yon figure is that of Owen Tudor； the
other is that of his wife； the great queen； both their bodies rest
below。〃
I forbore to say that the figures were not those of Owen Tudor and
the great queen； his wife； and I forbore to say that their bodies
did not rest in that church； nor anywhere in the neighbourhood； for
I was unwilling to dispel a pleasing delusion。 The tomb is
doubtless a tomb of one of the Tudor race； and of a gentle partner
of his； but not of the Rose of Mona and Catherine of France。 Her
bones rest in some corner of Westminster's noble abbey； his moulder
amongst those of thousands of others； Yorkists and Lancastrians；
under the surface of the plain； where Mortimer's Cross once stood；
that plain on the eastern side of which meanders the murmuring Lug；
that noble plain； where one of the hardest battles which ever
blooded English soil was fought； where beautiful young Edward
gained a crown； and old Owen lost a head； which when young had been
the most beautiful of heads； which had gained for him the
appellation of the Rose of Anglesey； and which had captivated the
glances of the fair daughter of France； the widow of Monmouth's
Harry； the immortal victor of Agincourt。
Nevertheless； long did I stare at that tomb which though not that
of the Rose of Mona and his queen； is certainly the tomb of some
mighty one of the mighty race of Theodore。 Then saying something
in Welsh to the pretty damsel； at which she started； and putting
something into her hand； at which she curtseyed； I hurried out of
the church。
CHAPTER XXXVII
Mental Excitation … Land of Poets … The Man in Grey … Drinking
Healths … The Greatest Prydydd … Envy … Welshmen not Hogs …
Gentlemanly Feeling … What Pursuit？ … Tell him to Walk Up … Editor
of the TIMES … Careful Wife … Departure。
I REGAINED the high road by a short cut； which I discovered； across
a field。 I proceeded rapidly along for some time。 My mind was
very much excited： I was in the birthplace of the mighty Tudors …
I had just seen the tomb of one of them； I was also in the land of
the bard； a country which had produced Gwalchmai who sang the
triumphs of Owain； and him who had sung the Cowydd of Judgment；
Gronwy Owen。 So no wonder I was excited。 On I went reciting
bardic snatches connected with Anglesey。 At length I began
repeating Black Robin's ode in praise of the island； or rather my
own translation of it； executed more than thirty years before；
which amongst others； contains the following lines：…
〃Twelve sober men the muses woo；
Twelve sober men in Anglesey；
Dwelling at home； like patriots true；
In reverence for Anglesey。〃
〃Oh；〃 said I； after I had recited that stanza； 〃what would I not
give to see one of those sober patriotic bards； or at least one of
their legitimate successors； for by this time no doubt； the sober
poets； mentioned by Black Robin； are dead。 That they left
legitimate successors who can doubt？ for Anglesey is never to be
without bards。 Have we not the words； not of Robin the Black； but
Huw the Red to that effect？
〃'Brodir； gnawd ynddi prydydd；
Heb ganu ni bu ni bydd。'
〃That is： a hospitable country； in which a poet is a thing of
course。 It has never been and will never be without song。〃
Here I became silent； and presently arrived at the side of a little
dell or ravine； down which the road led； from east to west。 The
northern and southern sides of this dell were precipitous。 Beneath
the southern one stood a small cottage。 Just as I began to descend
the eastern side； two men began to descend the opposite one； and it
so happened that we met at the bottom of the dingle； just before
the house； which bore a sign； and over the door of which was an
inscription to the effect that ale was sold within。 They saluted
me； I returned their salutation； and then we all three stood still；
looking at one another。 One of the men was rather a tall figure；
about forty； dressed in grey； or pepper…and…salt； with a cap of
some kind on his head； his face was long and rather good…looking；
though slightly pock…broken。 There was a peculiar gravity upon it。
The other person was somewhat about sixty … he was much shorter
than his companion； and much worse dressed … he wore a hat that had
several holes in it； a dusty rusty black coat； much too large for
him； ragged yellow velveteen breeches； indifferent fustian gaiters；
and shoes； cobbled here and there； one of which had rather an ugly
bulge by the side near the toes。 His mouth was exceedingly wide；
and his nose remarkably long； its extremity of a deep purple； upon
his features was a half…simple smile or leer； in his hand was a
long stick。 After we had all taken a full view of one another I
said in Welsh； addressing myself to the man in grey； 〃Pray may I
take the liberty of asking the name of this place。〃
〃I believe you are an Englishman； sir；〃 said the man in grey；
speaking English； 〃I will therefore take the liberty of answering
your question in the English tongue。 The name of this place is
Dyffryn Gaint。〃
〃Thank you；〃 said I； 〃you are quite right with regard to my being
an Englishman； perhaps you are one yourself？〃
〃Sir；〃 said the man in grey； 〃I have not the honour to be so。 I am
a native of the small island in which we are。〃
〃Small；〃 said I； 〃but famous； particularly for producing
illustrious men。〃
〃That's very true indeed； sir；〃 said the man in grey； drawing
himself up； 〃it is particularly famous for producing illustrious
men。〃
〃There was Owen Tudor？〃 said I。
〃Very true；〃 said the man in grey； 〃his tomb is in the church a
little way from hence。〃
〃Then；〃 said I； 〃there was Gronwy Owen； one of the greatest bards
that ever lived。 Out of reverence to his genius I went yesterday
to see the place of his birth。〃
〃Sir；〃 said the man in grey； 〃I should be sorry to leave you
without enjoying your conversation at some length。 In yonder house
they sell good ale； perhaps you will not be offended if I ask you
to drink some with me and my friend？〃
〃You are very kind；〃 said I； 〃I am fond of good ale and fonder
still of good company … suppose we go in？〃
We went into the cottage； which was kept by a man and his wife；
both of whom seemed to be perfectly well acquainted with my two new
friends。 We sat down on stools； by a clean white tab