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wild wales-第79章

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spear。  Scarcely; however; had he done so when his ears were 
startled by the cry of a child from beneath the fallen tent; and 
hastily removing the canvas he found the child in its cradle; quite 
uninjured; and the body of an enormous wolf; frightfully torn and 
mangled; lying near。  His breast was now filled with conflicting 
emotions; joy for the preservation of his son; and grief for the 
fate of his dog; to whom he forthwith hastened。  The poor animal 
was not quite dead; but presently expired; in the act of licking 
his master's hand。  Llywelyn mourned over him as over a brother; 
buried him with funeral honours in the valley; and erected a tomb 
over him as over a hero。  From that time the valley was called Beth 
Gelert。

Such is the legend; which; whether true or fictitious; is 
singularly beautiful and affecting。

The tomb; or what is said to be the tomb; of Gelert; stands in a 
beautiful meadow just below the precipitous side of Cerrig Llan:  
it consists of a large slab lying on its side; and two upright 
stones。  It is shaded by a weeping willow; and is surrounded by a 
hexagonal paling。  Who is there acquainted with the legend; whether 
he believes that the dog lies beneath those stones or not; can 
visit them without exclaiming with a sigh; 〃Poor Gelert!〃

After wandering about the valley for some time; and seeing a few of 
its wonders; I inquired my way for Festiniog; and set off for that 
place。  The way to it is through the pass at the south…east end of 
the valley。  Arrived at the entrance of the pass I turned round to 
look at the scenery I was leaving behind me; the view which 
presented itself to my eyes was very grand and beautiful。  Before 
me lay the meadow of Gelert with the river flowing through it 
towards the pass。  Beyond the meadow the Snowdon range; on the 
right the mighty Cerrig Llan; on the left the equally mighty; but 
not quite so precipitous; Hebog。  Truly; the valley of Gelert is a 
wondrous valley … rivalling for grandeur and beauty any vale either 
in the Alps or Pyrenees。  After a long and earnest view I turned 
round again and proceeded on my way。

Presently I came to a bridge bestriding the stream; which a man 
told me was called Pont Aber Glas Lyn; or the bridge of the 
debouchement of the grey lake。  I soon emerged from the pass; and 
after proceeding some way stopped again to admire the scenery。  To 
the west was the Wyddfa; full north was a stupendous range of 
rocks; behind them a conical peak seemingly rivalling the Wyddfa 
itself in altitude; between the rocks and the road; where I stood; 
was beautiful forest scenery。  I again went on; going round the 
side of a hill by a gentle ascent。  After a little time I again 
stopped to look about me。  There was the rich forest scenery to the 
north; behind it were the rocks and behind the rocks rose the 
wonderful conical hill impaling heaven; confronting it to the 
south…east; was a huge lumpish hill。  As I stood looking about me I 
saw a man coming across a field which sloped down to the road from 
a small house。  He presently reached me; stopped and smiled。  A 
more open countenance than his I never saw in all the days of my 
life。

〃Dydd dachwi; sir;〃 said the man of the open countenance; 〃the 
weather is very showy。〃

〃Very showy; indeed;〃 said I; 〃I was just now wishing for somebody; 
of whom I might ask a question or two。〃

〃Perhaps I can answer those questions; sir?〃

〃Perhaps you can。  What is the name of that wonderful peak sticking 
up behind the rocks to the north?〃

〃Many people have asked that question; sir; and I have given them 
the answer which I now give you。  It is called the 'Knicht;' sir; 
and a wondrous hill it is。〃

〃And what is the name of yonder hill opposite to it; to the south; 
rising like one big lump。〃

〃I do not know the name of that hill; sir; farther than that I have 
heard it called the Great Hill。〃

〃And a very good name for it;〃 said I; 〃do you live in that house?〃

〃I do; sir; when I am at home。〃

〃And what occupation do you follow?〃

〃I am a farmer; though a small one。〃

〃Is your farm your own?〃

〃It is not; sir:  I am not so far rich。〃

〃Who is your landlord?〃

〃Mr Blicklin; sir。  He is my landlord。〃

〃Is he a good landlord?〃

〃Very good; sir; no one can wish for a better landlord。〃

〃Has he a wife?〃

〃In truth; sir; he has; and a very good wife she is。〃

〃Has he children?〃

〃Plenty; sir; and very fine children they are。〃

〃Is he Welsh?〃

〃He is; sir!  Cumro pur iawn。〃

〃Farewell;〃 said I; 〃I shall never forget you; you are the first 
tenant I ever heard speak well of his landlord; or any one 
connected with him。〃

〃Then you have not spoken to the other tenants of Mr Blicklin; sir。  
Every tenant of Mr Blicklin would say the same of him as I have 
said; and of his wife and his children too。  Good…day; sir!〃

I wended on my way; the sun was very powerful; saw cattle in a pool 
on my right; maddened with heat and flies; splashing and fighting。  
Presently I found myself with extensive meadows on my right; and a 
wall of rocks on my left; on a lofty bank below which I saw goats 
feeding; beautiful creatures they were; white and black; with long 
silky hair; and long upright horns。  They were of large size; and 
very different in appearance from the common race。  These were the 
first goats which I had seen in Wales; for Wales is not at present 
the land of goats; whatever it may have been。

I passed under a crag exceedingly lofty; and of very frightful 
appearance。  It hung menacingly over the road。  With this crag the 
wall of rocks terminated; beyond it lay an extensive strath; 
meadow; or marsh bounded on the cast by a lofty hill。  The road lay 
across the marsh。  I went forward; crossed a bridge over a 
beautiful streamlet; and soon arrived at the foot of the hill。  The 
road now took a turn to the right; that is to the south; and seemed 
to lead round the hill。  Just at the turn of the road stood a small 
neat cottage。  There was a board over the door with an inscription。  
I drew nigh and looked at it; expecting that it would tell me that 
good ale was sold within; and read:  〃Tea made here; the draught 
which cheers but not inebriates。〃  I was before what is generally 
termed a temperance house。

〃The bill of fare does not tempt you; sir;〃 said a woman who made 
her appearance at the door; just as I was about to turn away with 
an exceedingly wry face。

〃It does not;〃 said I; 〃and you ought to be ashamed of yourself to 
have nothing better to offer to a traveller than a cup of tea。  I 
am faint; and I want good ale to give me heart; not wishy…washy tea 
to take away the little strength I have。〃

〃What would you have me do; sir?  Glad should I be to have a cup of 
ale to offer you; but the magistrates; when I applied to them for a 
licence; refused me one; so I am compelled to make a cup of tea; in 
order to get a crust of bread。  And if you choose to step in; I 
will make you a cup of tea; not wishy…washy; I assure you; but as 
good as ever was brewed。〃

〃I had tea for my breakfast at Beth Gelert;〃 said I; 〃and want no 
more till to…morrow mo
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