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beautiful valley。 On my right hand was a river the farther bank of
which was fringed with trees； on my left was a gentle ascent； the
lower part of which was covered with rich grass； and the upper with
yellow luxuriant corn； a little farther on was a green grove；
behind which rose up a moel。 A more bewitching scene I never
beheld。 Ceres and Pan seemed in this place to have met to hold
their bridal。 The sun now descending shone nobly upon the whole。
After staying for some time to gaze； I proceeded； and soon met
several carts； from the driver of one of which I learned that I was
yet three miles from Bala。 I continued my way and came to a
bridge； a little way beyond which I overtook two men； one of whom；
an old fellow； held a very long whip in his hand； and the other； a
much younger man with a cap on his head； led a horse。 When I came
up the old fellow took off his hat to me； and I forthwith entered
into conversation with him。 I soon gathered from him that he was a
horsedealer from Bala； and that he had been out on the road with
his servant to break a horse。 I astonished the old man with my
knowledge of Welsh and horses； and learned from him … for
conceiving I was one of the right sort； he was very communicative …
two or three curious particulars connected with the Welsh mode of
breaking horses。 Discourse shortened the way to both of us； and we
were soon in Bala。 In the middle of the town he pointed to a large
old…fashioned house on the right hand； at the bottom of a little
square； and said； 〃Your honour was just asking me about an inn。
That is the best inn in Wales； and if your honour is as good a
judge of an inn as of a horse； I think you will say so when you
leave it。 Prydnawn da 'chwi！〃
CHAPTER XLIX
Tom Jenkins … Ale of Bala … Sober Moments … Local Prejudices … The
States … Unprejudiced Man … Welsh Pensilvanian Settlers … Drapery
Line … Evening Saunter。
SCARCELY had I entered the door of the inn when a man presented
himself to me with a low bow。 He was about fifty years of age；
somewhat above the middle size； and had grizzly hair and a dark；
freckled countenance； in which methought I saw a considerable dash
of humour。 He wore brown clothes； had no hat on his head； and held
a napkin in his hand。 〃Are you the master of this hotel？〃 said I。
〃No； your honour；〃 he replied； 〃I am only the waiter； but I
officiate for my master in all things； my master has great
confidence in me； sir。〃
〃And I have no doubt；〃 said I； 〃that he could not place his
confidence in any one more worthy。〃
With a bow yet lower than the preceding one the waiter replied with
a smirk and a grimace； 〃Thanks； your honour； for your good opinion。
I assure your honour that I am deeply obliged。〃
His air； manner； and even accent； were so like those of a
Frenchman； that I could not forbear asking him whether he was one。
He shook his head and replied； 〃No； your honour； no； I am not a
Frenchman； but a native of this poor country； Tom Jenkins by name。〃
〃Well；〃 said I； 〃you really look and speak like a Frenchman； but no
wonder； the Welsh and French are much of the same blood。 Please
now to show me into the parlour。〃
He opened the door of a large apartment； placed a chair by a table
which stood in the middle； and then； with another bow； requested to
know my farther pleasure。 After ordering dinner I said that as I
was thirsty I should like to have some ale forthwith。
〃Ale you shall have； your honour；〃 said Tom； 〃and some of the best
ale that can be drunk。 This house is famous for ale。〃
〃I suppose you get your ale from Llangollen；〃 said I； 〃which is
celebrated for its ale over Wales。〃
〃Get our ale from Llangollen？〃 said Tom； with sneer of contempt；
〃no； nor anything else。 As for the ale it was brewed in this house
by your honour's humble servant。〃
〃Oh；〃 said I； 〃if you brewed it； it must of course be good。 Pray
bring me some immediately； for I am anxious to drink ale of your
brewing。〃
〃Your honour shall be obeyed；〃 said Tom； and disappearing returned
in a twinkling with a tray on which stood a jug filled with liquor
and a glass。 He forthwith filled the glass； and pointing to its
contents said：
〃There； your honour； did you ever see such ale？ Observe its
colour！ Does it not look for all the world as pale and delicate as
cowslip wine？〃
〃I wish it may not taste like cowslip wine；〃 said I； 〃to tell you
the truth； I am no particular admirer of ale that looks pale and
delicate； for I always think there is no strength in it。〃
〃Taste it； your honour；〃 said Tom； 〃and tell me if you ever tasted
such ale。〃
I tasted it； and then took a copious draught。 The ale was indeed
admirable； equal to the best that I had ever before drunk … rich
and mellow； with scarcely any smack of the hop in it； and though so
pale and delicate to the eye nearly as strong as brandy。 I
commended it highly to the worthy Jenkins； who exultingly
exclaimed：
〃That Llangollen ale indeed！ no； no！ ale like that； your honour；
was never brewed in that trumpery hole Llangollen。〃
〃You seem to have a very low opinion of Llangollen？〃 said I。
〃How can I have anything but a low opinion of it； your honour？ A
trumpery hole it is； and ever will remain so。〃
〃Many people of the first quality go to visit it；〃 said I。
〃That is because it lies so handy for England； your honour。 If it
did not； nobody would go to see it。 What is there to see in
Llangollen？〃
〃There is not much to see in the town； I admit；〃 said I； 〃but the
scenery about it is beautiful： what mountains！〃
〃Mountains； your honour； mountains！ well； we have mountains too；
and as beautiful as those of Llangollen。 Then we have our lake；
our Llyn Tegid； the lake of beauty。 Show me anything like that
near Llangollen？〃
〃Then；〃 said I； 〃there is your mound； your Tomen Bala。 The
Llangollen people can show nothing like that。〃
Tom Jenkins looked at me for a moment with some surprise； and then
said： 〃I see you have been here before； sir。〃
〃No；〃 said I； 〃never； but I have read about the Tomen Bala in
books； both Welsh and English。〃
〃You have； sir；〃 said Tom。 〃Well； I am rejoiced to see so book…
learned a gentleman in our house。 The Tomen Bala has puzzled many
a head。 What do the books which mention it say about it； your
honour？〃
〃Very little；〃 said I； 〃beyond mentioning it； what do the people
here say of it？〃
〃All kinds of strange things； your honour。〃
〃Do they say who built it？〃
〃Some say the Tylwyth Teg built it； others that it was cast up over
a dead king by his people。 The truth is； nobody here knows who
built it； or anything about it； save that it is a wonder。 Ah；
those people of Llangollen can show nothing like it。〃
〃Come；〃 said I； 〃you must not be so hard upon the people of
Llangollen。 They appear to me upon the whole to be an eminently
respectable body。〃
The Celtic waiter gave a genuine French shrug。 〃Excuse me； your
honour； for being of a different opinion。 They are all drunkards。〃
〃I have occasionally seen drunken people at Llangollen；〃 said I；
〃but I have li