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all； and as for not speaking Welsh； there are many in Wales who
would be glad to have much less Welsh than they have。〃 I then told
John Jones the condition on which he might attend us； whereupon he
took off his shoes with great glee and attended us； holding them in
his hand。
We presently went upstairs； to what the housekeeper told us was the
principal drawing…room； and a noble room it was； hung round with
the portraits of kings and queens； and the mighty of the earth。
Here； on canvas； was noble Mary； the wife of William of Orange； and
her consort by her side； whose part like a true wife she always
took。 Here was wretched Mary of Scotland； the murderess of her own
lord。 Here were the two Charleses and both the Dukes of Ormond …
the great Duke who fought stoutly in Ireland against Papist and
Roundhead； and the Pretender's Duke who tried to stab his native
land； and died a foreign colonel。 And here； amongst other
daughters of the house； was the very proud daughter of the house；
the Warwick Dowager who married the Spectator； and led him the life
of a dog。 She looked haughty and cold； and not particularly
handsome； but I could not help gazing with a certain degree of
interest and respect on the countenance of the vixen； who served
out the gentility worshipper in such prime style。 Many were the
rooms which we entered； of which I shall say nothing； save that
they were noble in size and rich in objects of interest。 At last
we came to what was called the picture gallery。 It was a long
panelled room； extending nearly the whole length of the northern
side。 The first thing which struck us on entering was the huge
skin of a lion stretched out upon the floor； the head； however；
which was towards the door； was stuffed； and with its monstrous
teeth looked so formidable and life…like； that we were almost
afraid to touch it。 Against every panel was a portrait； amongst
others was that of Sir Thomas Middleton； the stout governor of the
castle； during the time of the siege。 Near to it was the portrait
of his rib； Dame Middleton。 Farther down on the same side were two
portraits of Nell Gwynn； the one painted when she was a girl； the
other when she had attained a more mature age。 They were both by
Lely； the Apelles of the Court of wanton Charles。 On the other
side was one of the Duke of Gloucester； the son of Queen Anne； who；
had he lived； would have kept the Georges from the throne。 In this
gallery on the southern side was a cabinet of ebony and silver；
presented by Charles the Second to the brave warrior Sir Thomas；
and which； according to tradition； cost seven thousand pounds。
This room； which was perhaps the most magnificent in the castle；
was the last we visited。 The candle of God； whilst we wandered
through these magnificent halls； was flaming in the firmament； and
its rays； penetrating through the long narrow windows； showed them
off； and all the gorgeous things which they contained to great
advantage。 When we left the castle we all said； not excepting John
Jones； that we had never seen in our lives anything more princely
and delightful than the interior。
After a little time； my wife and daughter complaining of being
rather faint； I asked John Jones whether there was an inn in the
neighbourhood where some refreshment could be procured。 He said
there was； and that he would conduct us to it。 We directed our
course towards the east； rousing successively； and setting a…
scampering； three large herds of deer … the common ones were yellow
and of no particular size … but at the head of each herd we
observed a big old black fellow with immense antlers； one of these
was particularly large； indeed as huge as a bull。 We soon came to
the verge of a steep descent； down which we went； not without some
risk of falling。 At last we came to a gate； it was locked；
however； on John Jones shouting； an elderly man with his right hand
bandaged； came and opened it。 I asked him what was the matter with
his hand； and he told me that he had lately lost three fingers
whilst working at a saw…mill up at the castle。 On my inquiring
about the inn he said he was the master of it； and led the way to a
long neat low house； nearly opposite to a little bridge over a
brook； which ran down the valley towards the north。 I ordered some
ale and bread…and…butter； and whilst our repast was being got ready
John Jones and I went to the bridge。
〃This bridge； sir；〃 said John； 〃is called Pont y Velin Castell； the
bridge of the Castle Mill； the inn was formerly the mill of the
castle； and is still called Melin y Castell。 As soon as you are
over this bridge you are in shire Amwythig； which the Saxons call
Shropshire。 A little way up on yon hill is Clawdd Offa or Offa's
dyke； built of old by the Brenin Offa in order to keep us poor
Welsh within our bounds。〃
As we stood on the bridge I inquired of Jones the name of the brook
which was running merrily beneath it。
〃The Ceiriog； sir；〃 said John； 〃the same river that we saw at Pont
y Meibion。〃
〃The river；〃 said I； 〃which Huw Morris loved so well； whose praises
he has sung； and which he has introduced along with Cefn Uchaf in a
stanza in which he describes the hospitality of Chirk Castle in his
day； and which runs thus：
〃Pe byddai 'r Cefn Ucha；
Yn gig ac yn fara；
A Cheiriog fawr yma'n fir aml bob tro；
Rhy ryfedd fae iddyn'
Barhau hanner blwyddyn；
I wyr bob yn gan…nyn ar ginio。〃
〃A good penill that； sir；〃 said John Jones。 〃Pity that the halls
of great people no longer flow with rivers of beer； nor have
mountains of bread and beef for all comers。〃
〃No pity at all；〃 said I； 〃things are better as they are。 Those
mountains of bread and beef； and those rivers of ale merely
encouraged vassalage； fawning and idleness； better to pay for one's
dinner proudly and independently at one's inn； than to go and
cringe for it at a great man's table。〃
We crossed the bridge； walked a little way up the hill which was
beautifully wooded； and then retraced our steps to the little inn；
where I found my wife and daughter waiting for us； and very hungry。
We sat down； John Jones with us； and proceeded to despatch our
bread…and…butter and ale。 The bread…and…butter were good enough；
but the ale poorish。 Oh； for an Act of Parliament to force people
to brew good ale！ After finishing our humble meal； we got up and
having paid our reckoning went back into the park； the gate of
which the landlord again unlocked for us。
We strolled towards the north along the base of the hill。 The
imagination of man can scarcely conceive a scene more beautiful
than the one which we were now enjoying。 Huge oaks studded the
lower side of the hill； towards the top was a belt of forest； above
which rose the eastern walls of the castle； the whole forest；
castle and the green bosom of the hill glorified by the lustre of
the sun。 As we proceeded we again roused the deer； and again saw
three old black fellows； evidently the patriarchs of the herds；
with their white enormous horns； with these ancient gentlefolks I
very much wished to make a