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the Christians； both Europeans and native； over and over again
murdering all the missionaries。 In 1841 the king ordered that all
missionaries should be drowned； and in 1851 his successor ordered that
whoever concealed a missionary should be cut in two。 The terrible and
sanguinary persecution which followed this edict never ceased； till
years afterward the French frightened the king into toleration； and put
an end； one hopes forever； to the persecution of Christians。 The
sisters compute the native Christians at seven thousand； and have
sanguine hopes for the future of Christianity in French Cochin China；
as well as in Cambodia； which appears to be under a French
protectorate。
I do not envy the French their colony。 According to my three
informants； Europeans cannot be acclimatized； and most of the children
born of white parents die shortly after birth。 The shores of the sea
and of the rivers are scourged by severe intermittent fevers； and the
whole of the colony by dysentery； which among Europeans is particularly
fatal。 The mean temperature is 83 degrees F。； the dampness is unusual；
and the nights are too hot to refresh people after the heat of the
day。*
＇*The chief production of the country is rice； which forms half the sum
total of the exports。 The other exports are chiefly salt…fish； salt；
undyed cotton； skins of beasts； and pepper。 About seven hundred vessels
enter and leave Saigon in a year。＇
After leaving the convent I resumed my gharrie； and the driver took me；
what I suppose is the usual 〃course〃 for tourists； through a quaint
Asiatic town inhabited by a mixed； foreign population of Hindus；
Malays； Tagals； and Chinese merchants； scattered among a large
indigenous population of Anamese fishermen； servants； and husbandmen；
through the colonial district； which looked asleep or dead； to the
markets； where the Chinamen and natives of India were in the full swing
and din of buying and selling all sorts of tropical fruits and rubbishy
French goods； and through what may be called the Government town or
official quarter。 It was getting dark when I reached the wharf； and the
darkness enabled me to hobble unperceived on board on my bandaged feet。
The heat of the murky； lurid evening was awful； and as thousands of
mosquitoes took possession of the ship； all comfort was banished； and I
was glad when we steamed down the palm…fringed Saigon or Donnai waters；
and through the mangrove swamps at the mouths of the Me…kong river； and
past the lofty Cape St。 Jacques； with its fort； into the open China
Sea。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER VII
Beauties of the TropicsSingapore HospitalityAn Equatorial
MetropolisAn Aimless ExistenceThe Growth of Singapore〃Farms〃 and
〃Farmers〃The Staple of ConversationThe Glitter of 〃Barbaric
Gold〃A Polyglot PopulationA Mediocre PeopleFemale Grace and
BeautyThe 〃Asian Mystery〃Oriental PicturesquenessThe
Metamorphosis of Singapore
SINGAPORE； January 19； 1879。
It is hotso hot！but not stifling； and all the rich…flavored；
colored fruits of the tropics are herefruits whose generous juices
are drawn from the moist and heated earth； and whose flavors are the
imprisoned rays of the fierce sun of the tropics。 Such cartloads and
piles of bananas and pine…apples； such heaps of custard…apples and
〃bullocks' hearts；〃 such a wealth of gold and green giving off
fragrance！ Here； too； are treasures of the heated； crystal seasthings
that one has dreamed of after reading Jules Verne's romances。 Big
canoes； manned by dark…skinned men in white turbans and loin…cloths；
floated round our ship； or lay poised on the clear depths of aquamarine
water； with fairy freightsforests of coral white as snow； or red；
pink； violet； in massive branches or fern…like sprays； fresh from their
warm homes beneath the clear warm waves； where fish as bright…tinted as
themselves flash through them like 〃living light。〃 There were displays
of wonderful shells； too； of pale rose…pink； and others with rainbow
tints which； like rainbows； came and wentnothing scanty； feeble； or
pale！
It is a drive of two miles from the pier to Singapore； and to eyes
which have only seen the yellow skins and non…vividness of the Far
East； a world of wonders opens at every step。 It is intensely tropical；
there are mangrove swamps； and fringes of cocoa…palms； and
banana…groves； date； sago； and travelers' palms； tree…ferns；
india…rubber； mango； custard…apple； jack…fruit； durion； lime；
pomegranate； pine…apples； and orchids； and all kinds of strangling and
parrot…blossomed trailers。 Vegetation rich； profuse； endless； rapid；
smothering； in all shades of vivid green； from the pea…green of spring
and the dark velvety green of endless summer to the yellow…green of the
plumage of the palm； riots in a heavy shower every night and the heat
of a perennial sun…blaze every day； while monkeys of various kinds and
bright…winged birds skip and flit through the jungle shades。 There is a
perpetual battle between man and the jungle； and the latter； in fact；
is only brought to bay within a short distance of Singapore。
I had scarcely finished breakfast at the hotel； a shady； straggling
building； much infested by ants； when Mr。 Cecil Smith； the Colonial
Secretary； and his wife called； full of kind thoughts and plans of
furtherance； and a little later a resident； to whom I had not even a
letter of introduction； took me and my luggage to his bungalow。 All the
European houses seem to have very deep verandas； large； lofty rooms；
punkahs everywhere； windows without glass； brick floors； and jalousies
and 〃tatties〃 （blinds made of grass or finely…split bamboo） to keep out
the light and the flies。 This equatorial heat is neither as exhausting
or depressing as the damp summer heat of Japan； though one does long
〃to take off one's flesh and sit in one's bones。〃
I wonder how this unexpected and hastily planned expedition into the
Malay States will turn out？ It is so unlikely that the different
arrangements will fit in。 It seemed an event in the dim future； but
yesterday my host sent up a 〃chit〃 from his office to say that a
Chinese steamer is to sail for Malacca in a day or two； and would I
like to go？ I was only allowed five minutes for decision； but I have no
difficulty in making up my mind when an escape from civilization is
possible。 So I wrote back that if I could get my money and letters of
introduction in time I would go； and returned to dine at Mr。 Cecil
Smith's； where a delightfully cultured and intellectual atmosphere made
civilization more than tolerable。 The needed letters were written；
various hints for my guidance were thrown out； and I drove back at
half…past ten under heavens which were one blaze of stars amidst a dust
of nebulae； like the inlaid gold spots amidst a dust of gold on old
Japanese lacquer； and through a moist； warm atmosphere laden with the
heavy fragrance of innumerable night…blossoming flowers。
Singapore； as the capital of the Straits Settlements and the residence
of the Governor； has a garrison； defensive works； ships of war hanging
about； and a great deal of military as well as commercial importance；
and 〃the roll of the British drum〃 is a reassuring sound in the