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voyage of the paper canoe-第60章

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within a few feet of me。  The hammock suddenly lost all its inviting aspect; and I pulled away from it faster than I had approached。  In the gloom I observed two little hammocks; between Colonel's Island and the Brunswick River; which seemed to be near Jointer's Creek; so I followed the  tortuous thoroughfares until I was within a quarter of a mile of one of them。

Pulling my canoe up a narrow creek towards the largest hammock; until the creek ended in the lowland; I was cheered by the sight of a small house in a grove of live…oaks; to reach which I was obliged to abandon my canoe and attempt to cross the soft marsh。  The tide was now rising rapidly; and it might be necessary for me to swim some inland creek before I could arrive at the upland。

An oar was driven into the soft mud of the marsh and the canoe tied to it; for I knew that the whole country; with the exception of the hammock near by; would be under water at flood…tide。 Floundering through mud and  pressing aside the tall; wire…like grass of the lowland; which entangled my feet; frequently leaping natural ditches; and going down with a thud in the mud on the other side; I finally struck the firm ground of the largest Jointer Hammock; when the voice of its owner; Mr。 R。 F。 Williams; sounded most cheerfully in my ears as he  exclaimed: 〃Where did you come from? How did you get across the marsh?〃

The unfortunate position of my boat was explained while the family gathered round me; after which we sat down to supper。  Mr。  Wilhams felt anxious about the cargo of my boat。 The coons;  he said; 〃will scent your  provisions; and tear everything to pieces in the boat。  We must go look after it immediately。〃 To go to the canoe we were obliged to follow a creek which swept past the side of the hammock; opposite to my landing…place; and row two or three miles on Jointer Creek。  At nine o'clock we reached the locality where I had abandoned the paper canoe。  Everything had changed in appearance; the land was under water; not a landmark remained except the top of the oar; which rose out of the lake…like expanse of water; while near it gracefully floated my little companion。 We towed her to the hammock; and after the tedious labor of divesting myself of the marsh mud; which clung to my clothes; had been crowned with success; the comfortable bed furnished by my host gave rest to limbs and nerves which had been severely overtaxed since sun set。

The following day opened cloudy and windy。 The ocean inlet of Jekyl and St。 Andrew's sounds is three miles wide。  From the mouth of Jointer Creek; across these unprotected  sounds; to High Point of Cumberland Island; is eight miles。  The route from the creek to Cumberland Island was a risky one for so small a boat as the paper canoe while the weather continued  unpropitious。  After entering the sounds there was but one spot of upland; near the mouth of the Satilla River; that could be used for camping purposes on the vast area of marshes。

During the month of March rainy and windy weather prevail on this coast。  I could ill afford to lose any time shut up in Jointer's Hammock by bad weather; as the low regions of  Okefenokee Swamp were to be penetrated before the warm season could make the task a disagreeable one。  After holding a consultation with Mr。 Williams; he contracted to take the canoe and its captain across St。 Andrew's Sound to High Point of Cumberland Island that day。  His little sloop was soon under way; and though the short; breaking waves of the sound; and the furious blasts of wind; made the navigation of the shoals disagreeable; we landed quietly at Mr。 Chubbs' Oriental Hotel; at High Point; soon after noon。

Mr。 Martin; the surveyor of the island;  welcomed me to Cumberland; and gave me much information pertaining to local matters。 The next morning the canoe left the high bluffs of this beautiful sea island so filled with historic associations; and threaded the marshy  thoroughfare of Cumberland and Brickhill River to  Cumberland Sound。  As I approached the mouth of the St。 Mary's River; the picturesque ruins of Dungeness towered above the live…oak forest of the southern end of Cumberland Island。 It was with regret I turned my back upon that sea; the sounds of which had so long struck upon my ear with their sweet melody。  It seemed almost a moan that was borne to me now as the soft waves laved the sides of my graceful craft; as though to give her a last; loving farewell。




CHAPTER XIV。  ST; MARY'S RIVER AND THE SUWANEE WILDERNESS。



A PORTAGE TO DUTTON。  DESCENT OF THE ST。 MARY'S RIVER。  FETE GIVEN BY THE CITIZENS TO THE PAPER CANOE。  THE PROPOSED CANAL ROUTE ACROSS FLORIDA。  A PORTAGE TO THE SUWANEE RIVER。  A NEGRO SPEAKS ON  ELECTRICITY AND THE TELEGRAPH。  A FREEDMAN'S SERMON。


I now ascended the beautiful St。 Mary's River; which flows from the great Okefenokee Swamp。 The state of Georgia was on my right hand; and Florida on my left。 Pretty hammocks dotted the marshes; while the country presented peculiar and interesting characteristics。 When four miles from Cumberland Sound; the little city of St。 Mary's; situated on the Georgia side of the river; was before me; and I went ashore to make inquiries concerning the route to  Okefenokee Swamp。

My object was to get information about the upper St。 Mary's River; from which I proposed to make a portage of thirty…five or forty miles in a westerly direction to the Suwanee River; upon arriving at which I would descend to the Gulf of Mexico。  My efforts; both at St。 Mary's and Fernandina; on the Florida side of  Cumberland Sound; to obtain any reliable information upon this matter; were unsuccessful。  A  settlement at Trader's Hill; about seventy…five miles up the St。 Mary's River; was the geographical limit of local knowledge; while I wished to ascend the river at least one hundred miles  beyond that point。

Believing that if I explored the uninhabited sources of the St。 Mary's; I should be compelled to return without finding any settler upon its banks at the proper point of departure for a portage to the Suwanee; it became necessary to abandon all idea of ascending this river。 I could not; however; give up the exploration of the route。  In this dilemma; a kindly written letter seemed to solve the difficulties。  Messrs。 Dutton & Rixford; northern gentlemen; who possessed large facilities for the manufacture of resin and turpentine at their new settlements of Dutton; six miles from the St。 Mary's River; and at  Rixford; near the Suwanee; kindly proposed that I should take my canoe by railroad from  Cumberland Sound to Dutton。  From that station Mr。 Dutton offered to transport the boat through the wilderness to the St。 Mary's River; which could be from that point easily descended to the sea。 The Suwanee River; at Rixford; could be reached by rail; and the voyage would end at its debouchure on the marshy coast of the Gulf of Mexico。

Hon。 David Yulee; president and one…third owner of the A。 G。 & W。 I。 T。 C。 Railroad; which connects the Atlantic coast at Fernandina with the Gulf coast at Cedar Keys; offered me the free use of his long railroad; for any purpose of exploration; &c。; while his son; Mr。 C。  Wickliffe Yulee; exerted himself to remove all  impedi
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