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glance the field of Waterloo； we asked the conductor of
the diligence； a portly warlike…looking veteran； whether
he had been at the battle。 〃Pas si bete〃such an
answer and sentiment as no Frenchman would own to
was his reply。 But； on the other hand； the postilion
who drove us was a Viscount； a son of some bankrupt
Imperial General； who accepted a pennyworth of beer
on the road。 The moral is surely a good one。
This flat； flourishing； easy country never could have
looked more rich and prosperous than in that opening
summer of 1815； when its green fields and quiet cities
were enlivened by multiplied red…coats： when its wide
chaussees swarmed with brilliant English equipages：
when its great canal…boats； gliding by rich pastures and
pleasant quaint old villages； by old chateaux lying
amongst old trees； were all crowded with well…to…do English
travellers： when the soldier who drank at the village
inn； not only drank； but paid his score； and Donald；
the Highlander； billeted in the Flemish farm…house；
rocked the baby's cradle； while Jean and Jeannette were
out getting in the hay。 As our painters are bent on military
subjects just now； I throw out this as a good subject
for the pencil； to illustrate the principle of an honest
English war。 All looked as brilliant and harmless as a
Hyde Park review。 Meanwhile； Napoleon screened behind
his curtain of frontier…fortresses； was preparing for
the outbreak which was to drive all these orderly people
into fury and blood； and lay so many of them low。
Everybody had such a perfect feeling of confidence
in the leader （for the resolute faith which the Duke of
Wellington had inspired in the whole English nation was
as intense as that more frantic enthusiasm with which
at one time the French regarded Napoleon）； the country
seemed in so perfect a state of orderly defence； and the
help at hand in case of need so near and overwhelming；
that alarm was unknown； and our travellers； among
whom two were naturally of a very timid sort； were；
like all the other multiplied English tourists； entirely at
ease。 The famous regiment； with so many of whose
officers we have made acquaintance； was drafted in canal
boats to Bruges and Ghent； thence to march to Brussels。
Jos accompanied the ladies in the public boats； the which
all old travellers in Flanders must remember for the
luxury and accommodation they afforded。 So prodigiously
good was the eating and drinking on board these
sluggish but most comfortable vessels； that there are legends
extant of an English traveller； who； coming to Belgium
for a week； and travelling in one of these boats； was so
delighted with the fare there that he went backwards
and forwards from Ghent to Bruges perpetually until the
railroads were invented； when he drowned himself on the
last trip of the passage…boat。 Jos's death was not to be
of this sort； but his comfort was exceeding； and Mrs。
O'Dowd insisted that he only wanted her sister Glorvina
to make his happiness complete。 He sate on the roof
of the cabin all day drinking Flemish beer； shouting for
Isidor； his servant； and talking gallantly to the ladies。
His courage was prodigious。 〃Boney attack us！〃 he
cried。 〃My dear creature； my poor Emmy； don't be
frightened。 There's no danger。 The allies will be in Paris
in two months； I tell you； when I'll take you to dine
in the Palais Royal； by Jove！ There are three hundred
thousand Rooshians； I tell you； now entering France by
Mayence and the Rhinethree hundred thousand under
Wittgenstein and Barclay de Tolly； my poor love。 You
don't know military affairs； my dear。 I do； and I tell
you there's no infantry in France can stand against
Rooshian infantry； and no general of Boney's that's fit
to hold a candle to Wittgenstein。 Then there are the
Austrians； they are five hundred thousand if a man； and
they are within ten marches of the frontier by this time；
under Schwartzenberg and Prince Charles。 Then there are
the Prooshians under the gallant Prince Marshal。 Show
me a cavalry chief like him now that Murat is gone。
Hey； Mrs。 O'Dowd？ Do you think our little girl here
need be afraid？ Is there any cause for fear； Isidor？ Hey；
sir？ Get some more beer。〃
Mrs。 O'Dowd said that her 〃Glorvina was not afraid
of any man alive； let alone a Frenchman；〃 and tossed
off a glass of beer with a wink which expressed her
liking for the beverage。
Having frequently been in presence of the enemy； or；
in other words； faced the ladies at Cheltenham and Bath；
our friend； the Collector； had lost a great deal of his
pristine timidity； and was now； especially when fortified
with liquor； as talkative as might be。 He was rather a
favourite with the regiment； treating the young officers
with sumptuosity； and amusing them by his military airs。
And as there is one well…known regiment of the army
which travels with a goat heading the column； whilst
another is led by a deer； George said with respect to his
brother…in…law； that his regiment marched with an
elephant。
Since Amelia's introduction to the regiment； George
began to be rather ashamed of some of the company to
which he had been forced to present her； and determined；
as he told Dobbin （with what satisfaction to the latter
it need not be said）； to exchange into some better regiment
soon； and to get his wife away from those damned
vulgar women。 But this vulgarity of being ashamed of
one's society is much more common among men than
women （except very great ladies of fashion； who； to be
sure； indulge in it）； and Mrs。 Amelia； a natural and
unaffected person； had none of that artificial shamefacedness
which her husband mistook for delicacy on his own
part。 Thus Mrs。 O'Dowd had a cock's plume in her hat；
and a very large 〃repayther〃 on her stomach； which she
used to ring on all occasions； narrating how it had been
presented to her by her fawther； as she stipt into the
car'ge after her mar'ge； and these ornaments； with other
outward peculiarities of the Major's wife； gave excruciating
agonies to Captain Osborne； when his wife and the
Major's came in contact； whereas Amelia was only
amused by the honest lady's eccentricities； and not in
the least ashamed of her company。
As they made that well…known journey； which almost
every Englishman of middle rank has travelled since；
there might have been more instructive； but few more
entertaining； companions than Mrs。 Major O'Dowd。 〃Talk
about kenal boats； my dear！ Ye should see the kenal
boats between Dublin and Ballinasloe。 It's there the rapid
travelling is； and the beautiful cattle。 Sure me fawther
got a goold medal （and his Excellency himself eat a slice
of it； and said never was finer mate in his loif） for a
four…year…old heifer； the like of which ye never saw in
this country any day。〃 And Jos owned with a sigh； 〃that
for good streaky beef； really mingled with fat and lean；
there was no country like England。〃
〃Except Ireland； where all your best mate comes from；〃
said the Major's lady； proceeding； as is not unusual with
patriots of her nation； to make comparisons greatly in
favour of her own country。 The idea of comparing the
market at Bruges with those of Dublin； although she had