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La Mere Bauche
by Anthony Trollope
The Pyreneean valley in which the baths of Vernet are situated is not
much known to English； or indeed to any travellers。 Tourists in
search of good hotels and picturesque beauty combined； do not
generally extend their journeys to the Eastern Pyrenees。 They rarely
get beyond Luchon； and in this they are right； as they thus end their
peregrinations at the most lovely spot among these mountains； and are
as a rule so deceived； imposed on； and bewildered by guides；
innkeepers； and horse…owners； at this otherwise delightful place； as
to become undesirous of further travel。 Nor do invalids from distant
parts frequent Vernet。 People of fashion go to the Eaux Bonnes and
to Luchon； and people who are really ill to Bareges and Cauterets。
It is at these places that one meets crowds of Parisians； and the
daughters and wives of rich merchants from Bordeaux； with an
admixture； now by no means inconsiderable； of Englishmen and
Englishwomen。 But the Eastern Pyrenees are still unfrequented。 And
probably they will remain so； for though there are among them lovely
valleysand of all such the valley of Vernet is perhaps the most
lovelythey cannot compete with the mountain scenery of other
tourists…loved regions in Europe。 At the Port de Venasquez and the
Breche de Roland in the Western Pyrenees； or rather； to speak more
truly； at spots in the close vicinity of these famous mountain
entrances from France into Spain； one can make comparisons with
Switzerland； Northern Italy； the Tyrol； and Ireland； which will not
be injurious to the scenes then under view。 But among the eastern
mountains this can rarely be done。 The hills do not stand thickly
together so as to group themselves； the passes from one valley to
another； though not wanting in altitude； are not close pressed
together with overhanging rocks； and are deficient in grandeur as
well as loveliness。 And then； as a natural consequence of all this；
the hotelsare not quite as good as they should be。
But there is one mountain among them which can claim to rank with the
Pic du Midi or the Maledetta。 No one can pooh…pooh the stern old
Canigou； standing high and solitary； solemn and grand； between the
two roads which run from Perpignan into Spain； the one by Prades and
the other by Le Boulon。 Under the Canigou； towards the west； lie the
hot baths of Vernet； in a close secluded valley； which； as I have
said before； is； as far as I know； the sweetest spot in these Eastern
Pyrenees。
The frequenters of these baths were a few years back gathered almost
entirely from towns not very far distant； from Perpignan； Narbonne；
Carcassonne； and Bezieres； and the baths were not therefore famous；
expensive； or luxurious； but those who believed in them believed with
great faith； and it was certainly the fact that men and women who
went thither worn with toil； sick with excesses； and nervous through
over…care； came back fresh and strong； fit once more to attack the
world with all its woes。 Their character in latter days does not
seem to have changed； though their circle of admirers may perhaps be
somewhat extended。
In those days； by far the most noted and illustrious person in the
village of Vernet was La Mere Bauche。 That there had once been a
Pere Bauche was known to the world； for there was a Fils Bauche who
lived with his mother； but no one seemed to remember more of him than
that he had once existed。 At Vernet he had never been known。 La
Mere Bauche was a native of the village； but her married life had
been passed away from it； and she had returned in her early widowhood
to become proprietress and manager； or； as one may say； the heart and
soul of the Hotel Bauche at Vernet。
This hotel was a large and somewhat rough establishment； intended for
the accommodation of invalids who came to Vernet for their health。
It was built immediately over one of the thermal springs； so that the
water flowed from the bowels of the earth directly into the baths。
There was accommodation for seventy people； and during the summer and
autumn months the place was always full。 Not a few also were to be
found there during the winter and spring； for the charges of Madame
Bauche were low； and the accommodation reasonably good。
And in this respect； as indeed in all others； Madame Bauche had the
reputation of being an honest woman。 She had a certain price； from
which no earthly consideration would induce her to depart； and there
were certain returns for this price in the shape of dejeuners and
dinners； baths and beds； which she never failed to give in accordance
with the dictates of a strict conscience。 These were traits in the
character of an hotel…keeper which cannot be praised too highly； and
which had met their due reward in the custom of the public。 But
nevertheless there were those who thought that there was occasionally
ground for complaint in the conduct even of Madame Bauche。
In the first place she was deficient in that pleasant smiling
softness which should belong to any keeper of a house of public
entertainment。 In her general mode of life she was stern and silent
with her guests； autocratic； authoritative and sometimes
contradictory in her house； and altogether irrational and
unconciliatory when any change even for a day was proposed to her； or
when any shadow of a complaint reached her ears。
Indeed of complaint； as made against the establishment； she was
altogether intolerant。 To such she had but one answer。 He or she
who complained might leave the place at a moment's notice if it so
pleased them。 There were always others ready to take their places。
The power of making this answer came to her from the lowness of her
prices； and it was a power which was very dear to her。
The baths were taken at different hours according to medical advice；
but the usual time was from five to seven in the morning。 The
dejeuner or early meal was at nine o'clock； the dinner was at four。
After that； no eating or drinking was allowed in the Hotel Bauche。
There was a cafe in the village； at which ladies and gentlemen could
get a cup of coffee or a glass of eau sucre； but no such
accommodation was to be had in the establishment。 Not by any
possible bribery or persuasion could any meal be procured at any
other than the authorised hours。 A visitor who should enter the
salle a manger more than ten minutes after the last bell would be
looked at very sourly by Madame Bauche； who on all occasions sat at
the top of her own table。 Should any one appear as much as half an
hour late； he would receive only his share of what had not been
handed round。 But after the last dish had been so handed； it was
utterly useless for any one to enter the room at all。
Her appearance at the period of our tale was perhaps not altogether
in her favour。 She was about sixty years of age and was very stout
and short in the neck。 She wore her own gray hair； which at dinner
was always tidy enough； but during the 'whole day previous to that
hour she might be seen with it escaping from under her cap in extreme
disorder。 Her eyebrows were large and bushy； but those alone would
not h