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the grand canyon of arizona-第20章

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he Canyon。 In addition to the Canyon outlook; Cape Solitude; which might well be called Desert View; commands a fine expanse of the Painted Desert; extending a hundred miles in either direction; the colorings of which are especially dazzling at sunset。 The Little Colorado River flows through this desert; one thousand five hundred feet below Cape Solitude; in a gorge of about two thousand five hundred feet in depth。 From the narrow canyon of the Little Colorado; the desert rises to the east in three successive; gigantic steps of about one thousand feet each。 This affords a panorama of glorious colorings at sunset; while the view in the opposite direction glows best in the early hours of dawn。

To those who wish to camp out; sleeping in the open for two or more nights; the trip may be extended to the Canyon of the Little Colorado。 In this excursion; one gets a fine breath of the desert; a sight of the narrow and boxed…in Little Colorado Canyon; and extended desert views; passing by Cedar Mountain; one of the few spots where fragments of the almost vanished strata of the Permian age are still visible。

Tuba City and Moenkopi。 Tuba City; sixty miles east of Grand View Hotel (a four days' saddle and camping…out trip); is situated in the Painted Desert; and is the headquarters of the Navaho Indians of this locality。 Here also is located the United States Government Indian School; where the children of several tribes are being civilized。 Two miles away is Moenkopi; a Hopi village; or pueblo; of some thirty homes; where this pastoral and home…loving people may be found engaged in their quiet agricultural pursuits; the women also busy at basket…making and the fashioning of pottery。 At Tuba City there are many Navahos living in their hogans; where the rude silversmiths are at work creating their 〃arts and crafts〃 ware; and the looms of the blanket…weavers are incessantly busy。

Crater Mountain。 Crater Mountain; thirty…nine miles south of Grand View Hotel; is an extinct volcano with one side eroded; leaving a sheer wall five hundred feet high in circular form; with a variety of pillars standing high above the bottom of the amphitheatre。 Its red; yellow and black colors combine in a peculiar harmony; and novel effects are witnessed at sunset; or by moonlight。 To enjoy this trip aright; one should drive there; and arrange to sleep in the amphitheatre; returning on the following day。

Extinct Volcanoes。 Or; if a more extended trip is desired; one can drive on to the many cinder cones and extinct volcanoes that lie to the north and east of the San Francisco Mountains; including Sunset Crater and O'Leary Peak; and then into Flagstaff。



CHAPTER X。 A New 〃Rim〃 Road And Trail Into The Scenic Heart Of The Canyon

Large corporate bodies do not always move with the same rapidity as do personal enterprises where one man controls。 Many minds and many interests often have to be consulted。 When; however; the way is clear; a corporate body; with its vast power; can accomplish in a short time what individuals could never compass in several successive lifetimes。

These remarks are exemplified in the action of the Santa Fe Railway Company at the Grand Canyon。 It has taken several years for things to properly shape themselves for adequate development; so that all classes of travelers visiting the Grand Canyon could be suitably provided for。 In hotel accommodations; El Tovar; and the equally well conducted but cheaper Bright Angel Camp; leave nothing to be desired。 In transportation facilities; both on the railway and for drives; riding or the descent of the trails; provision is made to meet the most exacting demands。

Hermit Rim Road and Trail。 These imperative necessities met; attention has been given to a further opening up of the scenic portions of the Canyon。 In furtherance of this policy the Santa Fe Railway has built a new roadway from El Tovar and Hopi Point along the south rim of the Canyon to the head of Hermit Trail; nine miles west of El Tovar。 It is called Hermit Rim Road。

This roadway is thirty feet in width; with a central driveway; fourteen feet wide; of crushed stone rolled hard and sprinkled with crude oil。 It is so wide; so well macadamized; so level and so dustless that it may well be likened to a city boulevard in the wilderness。

The road ends at the head of Hermit Trail; a new pathway now being built down the south wall of the Canyon。 Though this trail is being completed; it will not be opened for regular trail service until the summer of 1912。 It leads down into the very heart of the Canyon and reveals innumerable scenic wonders and surprises。

Hermit Rim Road to Hermit Basin。 Hermit Rim Road closely follows the rim from Hopi Point to the head of Hermit Basin and the top of Hermit Trail; not too near the brink; but in and out among the trees; affording wonderful vistas of the Canyon and the cliffs of the opposite wall。 Hermit Rim Road is perhaps the most unique highway in the world; for there is no other roadway on the brink of such a tremendous gorge。 Startling views reveal depths of the Canyon on one side; and on the other are quiet scenes down long forest lanes。 In places there is a sheer drop of 2;000 feet within a rod of the traveled track; and another drop almost as far below that; but there is no danger; so perfectly have the engineers of the road done their work。

Leaving El Tovar; the road quickly ascends El Tovar Hill; giving a view of the San Francisco Peaks and neighboring mountains standing high above the Tusayan Forest; and purple colored with the haze of seventy…five miles of distance。 Then; down into Coconino Wash; up Tusayan Hill; past Maricopa Point; and Hopi Point; long noted for its unrivaled sunset view; is reached。

About a mile beyond Hopi Point is Mohave Point; standing in sheer and awful precipices above Monument Creek; and leaving that; a huge curve on top of Hopi Wall is traversed; and opposite this place the granite gorge is deepest。

Rounding Mohave Point on the next leg of the journey three and four…fifths miles to Pima Point; is the greatest curve on the road; and along this section there is much to claim the attention。 First one and then another of the great interior rock temples seems to command the eye; the side canyons reaching far back into the Kaibab Plateau on the north; and that everywhere enter the main gorge; show depths of startling distance; the predominant colorsvermilion; blue; green; buff; and grayare incomparable; and the wild river; roaring and tumbling; may be seen from different points; though from the roadway it seems but a mere ribbon of brown。 At Pima Point the road curves to the southwest and continues for more than a mile on the rim of Hermit Basin; until the head of Hermit Trail is reached。 Wide outlooks across the Cataract Canyon country and unusual views of the river are afforded on the final mile。 The road ends where Hermit Trail; a new trail; like the road; wide and safe; begins。

Hermit Trail。 The new trail is being built on the most approved engineering lines。 It is four feet wide all the way; with a low protecting wall of rock on the outside; and is most carefully laid out。 Cuts in the solid rock; likewise heavy stone walls built up as a supp
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