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leaving the marks of its strife upon the banded rocks which surrounded and hovered over us。
Now we scrambled over great rocks； then along a foot…wide trail； and at length wound our way out along a massive bank of talus。 Around at the head of the trail； I sent Sinyela back； and started alone along the historic trail across the plateau。 The general scenery of the plateau already has been described。
A Roundabout Drive。 At this point； I prevailed upon Mr。 Bass to hitch two horses and two mules to his ambulance （which had once been a United States Army ambulance and was used in his Arizona campaigns by General Nelson A。 Miles）； and drivea roundabout way to the northeastern slopes of the San Francisco range； thence to the Little Colorado River； where we would again strike the Hopi trail from Moenkopi to Oraibi。 There were four of us in the party。 From the rim of the Canyon direct to the Little Colorado the route is； at present； inaccessible for wagons。 It is a horse trail； and somewhat of the same nature as all the plateau trails through the Kohonino （Coconino） Forest。 Hence our roundabout wagon trip。
On the Fringe of the Painted Desert。 Filling our canteens to the nozzle； we drove over the western fringe of the Painted Desert。 Skirting the mountain； we made a 〃dry camp〃 that night； and used up every drop of water next morning。 Some went for our coffee； and the rest was given to the animals。 Then we started for the far…away Tanner Crossing of the Little Colorado； across the thirsty desert。 As we were without water； it was natural that； on that particular day； the elements should combine to make it hotter than usual。 A few clouds sprang into existence； but we felt no breath of cooling air； and as the day grew； the clouds became burning glasses to focus the sun's heat more powerfully upon us。 Late in the afternoon； our eyes were delighted with the sight of what seemed to be a pool of water； in the road ahead of us。 Parched almost to keen suffering； we drove our weary and thirsty horses right into it； scaring away； as we did so； several horses that were standing there； and then； not waiting for cups or ceremony； each man threw himself flat on his stomach and began to drink the uninviting compound。 A heavy shower had fallen in this one spot； and the pool had not yet had time to evaporate。
A Dash Across the Little Colorado。 The day was sultry and betokened a heavy rain storm； so； when we reached the Little Colorado； we decided to get over that night； since； if the storm came； it might render crossing impossible。 Our ambulance was heavily laden； and the crossing dangerous。 Before I ventured； we unloaded about half the weight； and then I undressed； save for my undershirt； and went to investigate the bed of the crossing for quicksands。 As soon as I had determined where to drive； we started across。
Whipping up the mules； and keeping their necks well into their collars； we dashed across in safety。 Immediately the wagon was unloaded； I turned it around and crossed alone。 The remainder of the load was put in； with our two men； and； one of them seated by my side with the whip； we 〃yelled〃 ourselves across again。 Our wagon was stopped in a sandy drift； our grub box thrown out； a fire lighted； and with the impending storm in close proximity； we hurriedly cooked and ate our evening meal。 No sooner was my plate cleared than； taking my roll of blankets； I wearily threw them down not more than ten feet from the wagon； too utterly 〃played out〃 to seek shelter in the cliff beyond； where a number of cave…like shelves afforded good level sleeping places； secure from the storm。 As I unrolled my blankets； I called to the men to be sure to put out the camp fire and place the sugar sack； etc。； in the grub box and close the lid。 I was no sooner stretched out than I was sound asleep。
A Storm at Night。 One of my companions insisted upon unrolling his blankets close to me； in spite of the fact that a terrible storm might break over us at any time。 Poor fellow！ He had scarcely gotten to sleep when a frightful gust of wind swept down upon us。 Awakened with the noise； my eye caught a glimpse of the flaming brands from the fire being tossed into the wagon； and I rushed to the rescue。 In a fierce wind； with a wagon and its contents dried out by the fierce Arizona sun； I knew there was not a moment to lose。 Fortunately； I had left a pail； of water close by； and with this I doused out not only the flames in the wagon； but the remnant of the camp fire。 It was pitch dark by now。 All at once； with a light that was blinding in its intensity； and with a terrible clap of thunder； the storm burst upon us。 It was； without any question； one of the fiercest short storms； accompanied with the most vivid lightning； I have ever seen。 The darkness was so black； that； like that of Egypt during the plague； it seemed almost as if it might be felt。 With a suddenness that was awe…inspiring； it became light as noonday。 The lightning was of a brilliant； violet tint； and shone with fervent intensity。 And it was not merely a few flashes。 It came down in millions of jagged streaks； completely filling the heavens to the horizon in every direction。
A Frightened Traveler。 In one of these blinding flashes； I caught sight of my neighbor。 His face wore an expression of anguish。 In his dread he had arisen； and had tried to pick up his clothes and blankets； in the hope of reaching shelter。 In one of the sudden lulls of the tempest； I heard him talking to himself： 〃Shall I ever live through this awful night？ Can I get to those cliffs？ Why doesn't some one come to help me？ I'm going to die。 There's no help for it！〃 Taking advantage of the next flash； I picked up my blankets and carried them to the cliffs； then returned to him； gathered up his belongings； and urged him to follow me。 As soon as he was secure； I spread out my sopping wet blankets in the first space I could find。 Wet through as I was； I rolled myself up in my wetter blankets； and soon should have been asleep； had it not been for the moanings of the man I had rescued。 He wished he hadn't come； he was sure the exposure would kill him； and he wondered why people were such fools as to take unnecessary trips。 Just then the storm waters from above； seeking their accustomed drainage channels； found their way down to a rock which overhung my sleeping…place as a rude spout； and began to pour upon me in bucketfuls。 Yet I vowed I would never admit that my sleep was in the slightest disturbed。 So I turned over in my watery bed； and kept up the play until morning came； while the angry man complained the entire time。 Funny？ In spite of my own misery； it was funny enough to make a burro laugh。
Two Days' Rest。 It took us a couple of days to get well dried out； which we spent at Tuba City； a Mormon town since abandoned by order of the Courts； which found that it was illegally located on an Indian reserve。 Then we enjoyed a day or two at Moenkopi； watching the Hopi Indians at their interesting occupations； caring for their fields； and preparing to go on to Oraibi； forty miles distant； where the Snake Dance was soon to occur。
Camp at Blue Canyon。 The heat was fearfulit was the middle of August …and the sand made hard pulling for the hor