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Such being the inevitable； it was refreshing to see the thing in
caricature。 No pains； evidently； had been spared by the inhabitants
to make their map realistic。 There the geometric lines all stood in
ludicrous insistence； any child could have drawn the thing as
mechanically。
The two teahouses were well patronized by wayfarers of both sexes；
resting after their climb。 Some simply sipped tea； chatting； others
made a regular meal of the opportunity。 The greater number sat； as
we did； on the sill； for the trouble of taking off their straw sandals。
Our landlady was the model of what a landlady should be； for it was
apparently a feminine establishment。 If there was a man attached to
it； he kept himself discreetly in the background。 She was a kind；
sympathetic soul； with a word for every one； and a deliberateness of
action as effective as it was efficient。 And in the midst of it all；
she kept up a refrain of welcomes and good…bys； as newcomers appeared
or old comers left。 The unavoidable preliminary exercise and the
crisp air whetted all our appetites。 So I doubt not she drove a
thriving trade； although to Western ideas of value her charges were
infinitesimally small。
Midday halts for lunch are godsends to tramps who travel with porters。
They compel the porters to catch up； and give the hirer opportunity
to say things which at least relieve him； if they do no good。 I had
begun to fear ours would deprive me of this pleasure； and indeed had
got so far on in my meal as to care little whether they did； when
automatically they appeared。 Fortunately they needed but a short rest；
and as the descent on the Noto side was much steeper than on the other；
half an hour's walk brought us to the level of kuruma once more。
A bit of lane almost English in look； bowered in trees and winding
delightfully like some human stream； led us to a teahouse。 While we
were ordering chaises a lot of children gathered to inspect us； thus
kindly giving us our first view of the natives。 They looked more
open…eyed than Japanese generally； but such effect may have been due
to wonder。 At all events； the stare； if it was a stare； seemed like
a silent sort of welcome。
Leaving the children still gazing after us we bowled away toward
Nanao； and in the course of time caught our first glimpse of it from
the upper end of a sweep of meadows。 It sat by the water's edge at
the head of a landlocked bay； the nearer arm of the inland sea； and
an apology for shipping rode in the offing。 It seemed a very
fair…sized town； and altogether a more lively place than I had
thought to find。 Clearly its life was as engrossing to it as if no
wall of hills notching the sky shut out the world beyond。 Having
heard； however； that a watering…place called Wakura was the sight of
the province； and learning now that it was but six miles further； we
decided； as it was yet early in the afternoon； to push on； and take
the capital later。 We did take it later； very much later the next
night； than was pleasing。
Wakura； indeed； was the one thing in Noto； except the charcoal； which
had an ultra…Noto…rious reputation。 Rumors of it had reached us as
far away as Shinshiu； and with every fresh inquiry we made as we
advanced the rumors had gathered strength。 Our informants spoke of
it with the vague respect accorded hearsay honor。 Clearly； it was no
place to pass by。
The road to it from Nanao was not noteworthy； but for two things； one
officially commended to sight…seers； the other not。 The first was a
curious water…worn rock upon the edge of the bay； some waif of a
boulder； doubtless； since it stuck up quite alone out of the sand。
A shrine perched atop； and a larger temple encircled it below； to which
its fantastic cuttings served as gateway and garden。 The uncommended
sight was a neighboring paddyfield； in which a company of frogs；
caught trespassing； stood impaled on sticks a foot high； as awful
warnings to their kind。 Beyond this the way passed through a string
of clay cuttings following the coast； and in good time rolled us into
the midst of a collection of barnlike buildings which it seemed was
Wakura。
The season for the baths had not yet begun； so that the number of
people at the hotels was still quite small。 Not so the catalogue of
complaints for which they were visited。 The list appalled me as I
sat on the threshold of my prospective lodging； listening to mine
host's encomiums on the virtues of the waters。 He expatiated
eloquently on both the quantity and quality of the cures； quite
unsuspicious that at each fresh recommendation he was in my eyes
depreciating his own wares。 Did he hope that among such a handsome
choice of diseases I might at least have one！ I was very near to
beating a hasty retreat on the spot。 For the accommodation in
Japanese inns is of a distressingly communistic character at best；
and although at present there were few patients in the place； the
germs were presumably still there on the lookout for a victim。
Immediate comfort； however； getting the better of problematical risk；
I went in。 The room allotted me lay on the ground floor just off the
garden； and I had not been there many minutes before I became aware；
as one does； that I was being stared at。 The culprit instantly
pretended； with a very sheepish air； to be only taking a walk。 He
was the vanguard of an army of the curious。 The people in the next
room were much exercised over the new arrival； and did all decency
allowed to catch a glimpse of me； for which in time they were
rewarded。 Visitors lodged farther off took aimless strolls to the
verandas； and looked at me when they thought I was not looking at
them。 All envied the servants； who out…did Abra by coming when I
called nobody； and then lingering to talk。 Altogether I was more of
a notoriety than I ever hope to be again； especially as any European
would have done them as well。 My public would have been greater； as
I afterwards learned； if Yejiro had not been holding rival court in
the kitchen。
Between us we were given a good deal of local information。 One bit
failed to cause me unmitigated delight。 We were not； it appeared；
the first foreigners to set foot in Wakura。 Two Europeans had； in a
quite uncalled…for way； descended upon the place the summer before；
up to which time； indeed； the spot had been virgin to Caucasians。
Lured by the fame of the springs； these men had come from Kanazawa in
Kaga； where they were engaged in teaching chemistry； to make a test
of the waters。 I believe they discovered nothing startling。 I could
have predicted as much had they consulted me beforehand。 They
neglected to do so； and the result was they came； saw and conquered
what little novelty the place had。 I was quite chagrined。 It simply
showed how betrodden in these latter days the world is。 There is not
so much as a remote corner of it but falls under one of two heads；
those places wor