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in locating two statues evidently imported at that time。 They grace the
back steps of a rather shabby villa in the country； … Demosthenes and
Cicero； larger than life； dreary； funereal memorials of the follies of our
fathers。
The simple days we have been speaking of did not； however； outlast
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the circle that inaugurated them。 About 1867 a few rich New Yorkers
began 〃trying to know the Italians〃 and go about with them。 One family；
〃up to snuff〃 in more senses than one； married their daughter to the scion
of a princely house； and immediately a large number of her compatriots
were bitten with the madness of going into Italian society。
In 1870； Rome became the capital of united Italy。 The court removed
there。 The 〃improvements〃 began。 Whole quarters were remodelled； and
the dear old Rome of other days； the Rome of Hawthorne and Madame de
Stael； was swept away。 With this new state of things came a number of
Americo…Italian marriages more or less successful； and anything like an
American society； properly so… called； disappeared。 To…day families of our
compatriots passing the winter months in Rome are either tourists who
live in hotels； and see sights； or go （as far as they can） into Italian society。
The Queen of Italy； who speaks excellent English； developed a
PENCHANT for Americans； and has attached several who married Italians
to her person in different court capacities； indeed； the old 〃Black〃 society；
who have remained true to the Pope； when they wish to ridicule the new
〃White〃 or royal circle； call it the 〃American court！〃 The feeling is bitter
still between the 〃Blacks〃 and 〃Whites；〃 and an American girl who
marries into one of these circles must make up her mind to see nothing of
friends or relatives in the opposition ranks。 It is said that an amalgamation
is being brought about； but it is slow work； a generation will have to die
out before much real mingling of the two courts will take place。 As both
these circles are poor； very little entertainment goes on。 One sees a little
life in the diplomatic world； and the King and Queen give a ball or two
during the winter； but since the repeated defeats of the Italian arms in
Africa； and the heavy financial difficulties （things these sovereigns take
very seriously to heart）； there has not been much 〃go〃 in the court
entertainments。 The young set hope great things of the new Princess of
Naples； the bride of the heir…apparent； a lady who is credited with being
full of fun and life； it is fondly imagined that she will set the ball rolling
again。 By the bye； her first lady…in…waiting； the young Duchess del Monte
of Naples； was an American girl； and a very pretty one； too。 She enjoyed
for some time the enviable distinction of being the youngest and
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handsomest duchess in Europe； until Miss Vanderbilt married
Marlborough and took the record from her。 The Prince and Princess of
Naples live at their Neapolitan capital； and will not do much to help things
in Rome。 Besides which he is very delicate and passes for not being any
too fond of the world。
What makes things worse is that the great nobles are mostly 〃land
poor；〃 and even the richer ones burned their fingers in the craze for
speculation that turned all Rome upside down in the years following 1870
and Italian unity； when they naively imagined their new capital was to
become again after seventeen centuries the metropolis of the world。 Whole
quarters of new houses were run up for a population that failed to appear；
these houses now stand empty and are fast going to ruin。 So that little in
the way of entertaining is to be expected from the bankrupts。 They are a
genial race； these Italian nobles； and welcome rich strangers and marry
them with much enthusiasm … just a shade too much； perhaps … the girl
counting for so little and her DOT for so much in the matrimonial scale。 It
is only necessary to keep open house to have the pick of the younger ones
as your guests。 They will come to entertainments at American houses and
bring all their relations； and dance； and dine； and flirt with great good
humor and persistency； but if there is not a good solid fortune in the
background； in the best of securities； the prettiest American smiles never
tempt them beyond flirtation； the season over； they disappear up into their
mountain villas to wait for a new importation from the States。
In Rome； as well as in the other Italian cities； there are； of course； still
to be found Americans in some numbers （where on the Continent will you
not find them？）； living quietly for study or economy。 But they are not
numerous or united enough to form a society； and are apt to be involved in
bitter strife among themselves。
Why； you ask； should Americans quarrel among themselves？
Some years ago I was passing the summer months on the Rhine at a
tiny German watering…place； principally frequented by English； who were
all living together in great peace and harmony； until one fatal day； when an
Earl appeared。 He was a poor Irish Earl； very simple and unoffending； but
he brought war into that town； heart… burnings； envy； and backbiting。 The
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English colony at once divided itself into two camps； those who knew the
Earl and those who did not。 And peace fled from our little society。 You
will find in every foreign capital among the resident Americans； just such
a state of affairs as convulsed that German spa。 The native 〃swells〃 have
come to be the apple of discord that divides our good people among
themselves。 Those who have been successful in knowing the foreigners
avoid their compatriots and live with their new friends； while the other
group who； from laziness； disinclination； or principle （？） have remained
true to their American circle； cannot resist calling the others snobs； and
laughing （a bit enviously； perhaps） at the