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letters-第35章

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nish town  containing about 8000 inhabitants; and founded by the Romans。  I  instantly returned thanks to God who had protected me during a  journey of five days through the wilds of Alemtejo; the province of  Portugal the most infested by robbers and desperate characters; and  which I had traversed with no other human companion than a lad;  nearly idiotic; who was to convey back the mules which carried  myself and baggage。  It was not my intention to make much stay at  Badajoz; and as a vehicle would set out for Madrid the day next but  one after my arrival; I proposed to depart therein for the capital  of Spain。

The next morning I was standing at the door of the inn where I had  taken up my residence; the weather was gloomy; and rain seemed to  be at hand。  I was thinking of the state of the country I had  lately entered; which was involved in bloody anarchy and confusion;  and where the ministers of a religion; falsely styled Catholic and  Christian; were blowing the trump of war; instead of preaching the  love…engendering words of the blessed Gospel。  Suddenly two men  wrapped in long cloaks came down the narrow and almost deserted  street。  They were about to pass me; and the face of the nearest  was turned full towards me。  I knew to whom the countenance which  he displayed must belong; and I touched him on the shoulder。  The  man stopped and his companion also; I said a certain word; to which  after an exclamation of surprise he responded in the manner which I  expected。  The men were of that singular family; or race; which has  diffused itself over every part of the civilized globe; and the  members of which are known as Gypsies; Bohemians; Gitanos; Zigani;  and by many other names; but whose proper appellation seems to be  'Rommany;' from the circumstance that in many and distant countries  they so style themselves; and also the language which they speak  amongst each other。  We began conversing in the Spanish dialect of  this language; with which I was tolerably well acquainted。  Upon  inquiring of my two newly…made acquaintances whether there were  many of their people at Badajoz and in the vicinity; they informed  me that there were nine or ten families residing in the town; and  that there were others at Merida; a town about nine leagues  distant。  I asked by what means they supported themselves; and they  replied that they and their brethren gained a livelihood by jobbing  in horses; mules; etc。; but that all those in Badajoz were very  poor; with the exception of one man; who was exceedingly MUBALBALLO  or rich; as he was in possession of many horses and other beasts。   They removed their cloaks for a moment; and I saw that their  undergarments were rags。

They left me in haste; and went about the town informing the rest  that a stranger was arrived; who spoke Rommany as well as  themselves; who had the eyes and face of a Gitano; and seemed to be  of the ERATTI; or blood。  In less than half…an…hour the street  before the inn was filled with the men; women; and children of  Egypt。  I went out amongst them; and my heart sank within me as I  surveyed them; so much squalidness; dirt; and misery I had never  before seen amongst a similar number of human beings。  But the  worst of all was the evil expression of their countenances; plainly  denoting that they were familiar with every species of crime; and  it was not long before I found that their countenances did not  belie them。  After they had asked me an infinity of questions; and  felt my hands; face; and clothes; they retired to their homes。  My  meeting with these wretched people was the reason of my remaining  at Badajoz a much longer time than I originally intended。  I wished  to become better acquainted with their condition and manners; and  above all to speak to them about Christ and His Word; for I was  convinced that should I travel to the end of the universe I should  meet with none who were more in need of Christian exhortation; and  I accordingly continued at Badajoz for nearly three weeks。

During this time I was almost constantly amongst them; and as I  spoke their language and was considered by them as one of  themselves; I had better opportunities of coming to a fair  conclusion respecting their character than any other person;  whether Spaniard or foreigner; could have hoped for; not possessed  of a similar advantage。  The result of my observations was a firm  belief that the Spanish Gitanos are the most vile; degraded; and  wretched people upon the earth。

In no part of the world does the Gypsy race enjoy a fair fame and  reputation; there being no part where they are not considered; and  I believe with justice; as cheats and swindlers; but those of Spain  are not only all this; but far more。  The Gypsies of England;  Russia; etc。; live by fraud of various descriptions; but they  seldom commit acts of violence; and their vices are none or very  few; the men are not drunkards; nor are the women harlots; but the  Gypsy of Spain is a cheat in the market…place; a brigand and  murderer on the high…road; and a drunkard in the wine…shop; and his  wife is a harlot and thief on all times and occasions。  The  excessive wickedness of these outcasts may perhaps be attributed to  their having abandoned their wandering life and become inmates of  the towns; where to the original bad traits of their character they  have super…added the evil and vicious habits of the rabble。  Their  mouths teem with abomination; and in no part of the world have I  heard such frequent; frightful; and extraordinary cursing as  amongst them。

Religion they have none; they never attend mass; nor confess  themselves; and never employ the names of God; Christ and the  Virgin; but in imprecation and blasphemy。  From what I learnt from  them it appeared that their ancestors had some belief in  metempsychosis; but they themselves laughed at the idea; and were  decidedly of opinion that the soul perished when the body ceased to  breathe; and the argument which they used was rational enough; so  far as it impugned metempsychosis:  'We have been wicked and  miserable enough in this life;' they said; 'why should we live  again?'

I translated certain portions of Scripture into their dialect;  which I frequently read to them; especially the parables of Lazarus  and the Prodigal Son; and told them that the latter had been as  wicked as themselves; and both had suffered as much or more; but  that the sufferings of the former; who always looked forward to a  blessed resurrection; were recompensed in the world to come by  admission to the society of Abraham and the prophets; and that the  latter; when he repented of his crimes; was forgiven and received  into as much favour as the just son had always enjoyed。  They  listened with admiration; but alas! not of the truths; the eternal  truths I was telling them; but at finding that their broken jargon 

could be written and read。  The only words of assent to the  heavenly doctrine which I ever obtained; and which were rather of  the negative kind; were the following; from a woman:  'Brother; you  tell us strange things; though perhaps you do not lie; a month  since I would sooner have believed these tales; than that I should  this day have
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