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s we made up by the free use of French or Latin words。
After a few walks in the neighbourhood of the town; I found such a poverty of insects and birds that I determined to go for a few days to the island of Semao at the western extremity of Timor; where I heard that there was forest country with birds not found at Coupang。 With some difficulty I obtained a large dugout boat with outriggers; to take me over a distance of about twenty miles。 I found the country pretty well wooded; but covered with shrubs and thorny bushes rather than forest trees; and everywhere excessively parched and dried up by the long…continued dry season。 I stayed at the village of Oeassa; remarkable for its soap springs。 One of these is in the middle of the village; bubbling out from a little cone of mud to which the ground rises all round like a volcano in miniature。 The water has a soapy feel and produces a strong lather when any greasy substance is washed in it。 It contains alkali and iodine; in such quantities as to destroy all vegetation for some distance around。 Close by the village is one of the finest springs I have ever seen; contained in several rocky basins communicating by narrow channels。 These have been neatly walled where required and partly levelled; and form fine natural baths。 The water is well tasted and clear as crystal; and the basins are surrounded by a grove of lofty many…stemmed banyan…trees; which keep them always cool and shady; and add greatly to the picturesque beauty of the scene。
The village consists of curious little houses very different from any I have seen elsewhere。 They are of an oval figure; and the walls are made of sticks about four feet high placed close together。 From this rises a high conical roof thatched with grass。 The only opening is a door about three feet high。 The people are like the Timorese with frizzly or wavy hair and of a coppery brown colour。 The better class appear to have a mixture of some superior race which has much improved their features。 I saw in Coupang some chiefs from the island of Savu further west; who presented characters very distinct from either the Malay or Papuan races。 They most resembled Hindus; having fine well… formed features and straight thin noses with clear brown complexions。 As the Brahminical religion once spread over all Java; and even now exists in Bali and Lombock; it is not at all improbable that some natives of India should have reached this island; either by accident or to escape persecution; and formed a permanent settlement there。
I stayed at Oeassa four days; when; not finding any insects and very few new birds; I returned to Coupang to await the next mail steamer。 On the way I had a narrow escape of being swamped。 The deep coffin… like boat was filled up with my baggage; and with vegetables; cocoa… nut and other fruit for Coupang market; and when we had got some way across into a rather rough sea; we found that a quantity of water was coming in which we had no means of baling out。 This caused us to sink deeper in the water; and then we shipped seas over our sides; and the rowers; who had before declared it was nothing; now became alarmed and turned the boat round to get back to the coast of Semao; which was not far off。 By clearing away some of the baggage a little of the water could be baled out; but hardly so fast as it came in; and when we neared the coast we found nothing but vertical walls of rock against which the sea was violently beating。 We coasted along some distance until we found a little cove; into which we ran the boat; hauled it on shore; and emptying it found a large hole in the bottom; which had been temporarily stopped up with a plug of cocoa…nut which had come out。 Had we been a quarter of a mile further off before we discovered the leak; we should certainly have been obliged to throw most of our baggage overboard; and might easily have lost our lives。 After we had put all straight and secure we again started; and when we were halfway across got into such a strong current and high cross sea that we were very nearly being swamped a second time; which made me vow never to trust myself again in such small and miserable vessels。
The mail steamer did not arrive for a week; and I occupied myself in getting as many of the birds as I could; and found some which were very interesting。 Among them were five species of pigeons of as many distinct genera; and most of then peculiar to the island; two parrotsthe fine red…winged broad…tail (Platycercus vulneratus); allied to an Australian species; and a green species of the genus Geoffroyus。 The Tropidorhynchus timorensis was as ubiquitous and as noisy as I had found it at Lombock; and the Sphaecothera viridis; a curious green oriole with bare red orbits; was a great acquisition。 There were several pretty finches; warblers; and flycatchers; and among them I obtained the elegant blue and red Cyornis hyacinthina; but I cannot recognise among my collections the species mentioned by Dampier; who seems to have been much struck by the number of small songbirds in Timor。 He says: 〃One sort of these pretty little birds my men called the ringing bird; because it had six notes; and always repeated all his notes twice; one after the other; beginning high and shrill and ending low。 The bird was about the bigness of a lark; having a small; sharp; black bill and blue wings; the head and breast were of a pale red; and there was a blue streak about its neck。〃 In Semao; monkeys are abundant。 They are the common bare…lipped monkey (Macacus cynomolgus); which is found all over the western islands of the Archipelago; and may have been introduced by natives; who often carry it about captive。 There are also some deer; but it is not quite certain whether they are of the same species as are found in Java。
I arrived at Delli; the capital of the Portuguese possessions in Timor; on January 12; 1861; and was kindly received by Captain Hart; an Englishman and an old resident; who trades in the produce of the country and cultivates coffee on an estate at the foot of the hills。 With him I was introduced to Mr。 Geach; a mining…engineer who had been for two years endeavouring to discover copper in sufficient quantity to be worth working。
Delli is a most miserable place compared with even the poorest of the Dutch towns。 The houses are all of mud and thatch; the fort is only a mud enclosure; and the custom…house and church are built of the same mean materials; with no attempt at decoration or even neatness。 The whole aspect of the place is that of a poor native town; and there is no sign of cultivation or civilization round about it。 His Excellency the Governor's house is the only one that makes any pretensions to appearance; and that is merely a low whitewashed cottage or bungalow。 Yet there is one thing in which civilization exhibits itself officials in black and white European costume; and officers in gorgeous uniforms abound in a degree quite disproportionate to the size or appearance of the place。
The town being surrounded for some distance by swamps and mudflats is very unhealthy; and a single night often gives a fever to newcomers which not unfrequently proves fatal。 To avoid this malaria; Captain Hart always slept at his