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range of wild and rugged mountains on our right。 They rose by slopes
and ledges； steep and rough； and at last ended in the thousand…foot cliffs of
the buttes； running sheer and unbroken for many miles。 During all the
rest of our trip they were to be our companions； the only constant factors
in the tumult of lesser peaks； precipitous canons； and twisted systems in
which we were constantly involved。
The sky was sun…and…shadow after the rain。 Each and every
Arizonan predicted clearing。
〃Why； it almost never rains in Arizona；〃 said Jed Parker。 〃And when
it does it quits before it begins。〃
Nevertheless； about noon a thick cloud gathered about the tops of the
Galiuros above us。 Almost immediately it was dissipated by the wind；
but when the peaks again showed； we stared with astonishment to see that
they were white with snow。 It was as though a magician had passed a
sheet before them the brief instant necessary to work his great
transformation。 Shortly the sky thickened again； and it began to rain。
Travel had been precarious before； but now its difficulties were
infinitely increased。 The clay sub…soil to the rubble turned slippery and
adhesive。 On the sides of the mountains it was almost impossible to keep
a footing。 We speedily became wet； our hands puffed and purple； our
boots sodden with the water that had trickled from our clothing into them。
〃Over the next ridge；〃 Uncle Jim promised us； 〃is an old shack that I
fixed up seven years ago。 We can all make out to get in it。〃
Over the next ridge； therefore； we slipped and slid； thanking the god of
luck for each ten feet gained。 It was growing cold。 The cliffs and
palisades near at hand showed dimly behind the falling rain； beyond them
waved and eddied the storm mists through which the mountains revealed
and concealed proportions exaggerated into unearthly grandeur。 Deep in
the clefts of the box canons the streams were filling。 The roar of their
rapids echoed from innumerable precipices。 A soft swish of water
usurped the world of sound。
Nothing more uncomfortable or more magnificent could be imagined。
We rode shivering。 Each said to himself； 〃I can stand thisright nowat
the present moment。 Very well； I will do so； and I will refuse to look
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forward even five minutes to what I may have to stand；〃 which is the true
philosophy of tough times and the only effective way to endure
discomfort。
By luck we reached the bottom of that canon without a fall。 It was
wide； well grown with oak trees； and belly deep in rich horse feedan
ideal place to camp were it not for the fact that a thin sheet of water a
quarter of an inch deep was flowing over the entire surface of the ground。
We spurred on desperately； thinking of a warm fire and a chance to steam。
The roof of the shack had fallen in； and the floor was six inches deep
in adobe mud。
We did not dismountthat would have wet our saddlesbut sat on our
horses taking in the details。 Finally Uncle Jim came to the front with a
suggestion。
〃I know of a cave；〃 said he； 〃close under a butte。 It's a big cave； but
it has such a steep floor that I'm not sure as we could stay in it； and it's
back the other side of that ridge。〃
〃I don't know how the ridge is to get back overit was slippery enough
coming this wayand the cave may shoot us out into space； but I'd like to
LOOK at a dry place anyway；〃 replied the Cattleman。
We all felt the same about it； so back over the ridge we went。 About
half way down the other side Uncle Jim turned sharp to the right； and as
the 〃hog back〃 dropped behind us； we found ourselves out on the steep
side of a mountain； the perpendicular cliff over us to the right； the river
roaring savagely far down below our left； and sheets of water glazing the
footing we could find among the boulders and debris。 Hardly could the
ponies keep from slipping sideways on the slope； as we proceeded farther
and farther from the solidity of the ridge behind us； we experienced the
illusion of venturing out on a tight rope over abysses of space。 Even the
feeling of danger was only an illusion； however； composite of the falling
rain； the deepening twilight； and the night that had already enveloped the
plunge of the canon below。 Finally Uncle Jim stopped just within the
drip from the cliffs。
〃Here she is；〃 said he。
We descended eagerly。 A deer bounded away from the base of the
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ARIZONA NIGHTS
buttes。 The cave ran steep； in the manner of an inclined tunnel； far up
into the dimness。 We had to dig our toes in and scramble to make way up
it at all； but we found it dry； and after a little search discovered a foot…
ledge of earth sufficiently broad for a seat。
〃That's all right；〃 quoth Jed Parker。 〃Now； for sleeping places。〃
We scattered。 Uncle Jim and Charley promptly annexed the slight
overhang of the cliff whence the deer had jumped。 It was dry at the
moment； but we uttered pessimistic predictions if the wind should change。
Tom Rich and Jim Lester had a little tent； and insisted on descending to
the canon…bed。 〃Got to cook there； anyways；〃 said they； and departed
with the two pack mules and their bed horse。
That left the Cattleman； Windy Bill； Jed Parker； and me。 In a
moment Windy Bill came up to us whispering and mysterious。
〃Get your cavallos and follow me；〃 said he。
We did so。 He led us two hundred yards to another cave； twenty feet
high； fifteen feet in diameter； level as a floor。
〃How's that？〃 he cried in triumph。 〃Found her just now while I was
rustling nigger…heads for a fire。〃
We unpacked our beds with chuckles of joy； and spread them carefully
within the shelter of the cave。 Except for the very edges； which did not
much matter； our blankets and 〃so…guns；〃 protected by the canvas 〃tarp；〃
were reasonably dry。 Every once in a while a spasm of conscience would
seize one or the other of us。
〃It seems sort of me