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survival of this inane custom。
The disappearance of the Ocean House 〃hops〃 marked the last stage in
hotel life。 Since then better…class watering places all over the country have
slowly but surely followed Newport's lead。 The closed caravansaries of
Bar Harbor and elsewhere bear silent testimony to the fact that refined
Americans are at last awakening to the charms of home life during their
holidays； and are discarding； as fast as finances will permit； the pernicious
herding system。 In consequence the hotel has ceased to be； what it
undoubtedly was twenty years ago； the focus of our summer life。
Only a few charred rafters remain of the Ocean House。 A few talkative
old duffers like myself alone survive the day it represents。 Changing social
conditions have gradually placed both on the retired list。 A new and
palatial Newport has replaced the simpler city。 Let us not waste too much
time regretting the past； or be too sure that it was better than the present。 It
is quite possible； if the old times we are writing so fondly about should
return； we might discover that the same thing was true of them as a ragged
urchin asserted the other afternoon of the burning building：
〃Say； Tom； did ye know there was the biggest room in the world in that
hotel？〃
〃No； what room？〃
〃Room for improvement； ya！〃
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CHAPTER 27 … SARDOU at
Marly…le…Roy
NEAR the centre of that verdant triangle formed by Saint Cloud；
Versailles； and Saint Germain lies the village of Marly…le…Roy； high up on
a slope above the lazy Seine … an entrancing corner of the earth； much
affected formerly by French crowned heads； and by the 〃Sun King〃 in
particular； who in his old age grew tired of Versailles and built here one of
his many villas （the rival in its day of the Trianons）； and proceeded to
amuse himself therein with the same solemnity which had already made
vice at Versailles more boresome than virtue elsewhere。
Two centuries and four revolutions have swept away all trace of this
kingly caprice and the art treasures it contained。 Alone； the marble horses
of Coustou； transported later to the Champs Elysees； remain to attest the
splendor of the past。
The quaint village of Marly； clustered around its church； stands；
however … with the faculty that insignificant things have of remaining
unchanged … as it did when the most polished court of Europe rode through
it to and from the hunt。 On the outskirts of this village are now two forged
and gilded gateways through which the passer…by can catch a glimpse of
trim avenues； fountains； and well…kept lawns。
There seems a certain poetical justice in the fact that Alexandre Dumas
FILS and Victorien Sardou； the two giants of modern drama； should have
divided between them the inheritance of Louis XIV。； its greatest patron。
One of the gates is closed and moss…grown。 Its owner lies in Pere…la…
Chaise。 At the other I ring； and am soon walking up the famous avenue
bordered by colossal sphinxes presented to Sardou by the late Khedive。
The big stone brutes； connected in one's mind with heat and sandy wastes；
look oddly out of place here in this green wilderness … a bite； as it were；
out of the forest which； under different names； lies like a mantle over the
country…side。
Five minutes later I am being shown through a suite of antique salons；
in the last of which sits the great playwright。 How striking the likeness is
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THE WAYS OF MEN
to Voltaire； … the same delicate face； lit by a half cordial； half mocking
smile； the same fragile body and indomitable spirit。 The illusion is
enhanced by our surroundings； for the mellow splendor of the room where
we stand might have served as a background for the Sage of Ferney。
Wherever one looks； works of eighteenth…century art meet the eye。 The
walls are hung with Gobelin tapestries that fairly take one's breath away；
so exquisite is their design and their preservation。 They represent a marble
colonnade； each column of which is wreathed with flowers and connected
to its neighbor with garlands。
Between them are bits of delicate landscape； with here and there a
group of figures dancing or picnicking in the shadow of tall trees or under
fantastical porticos。 The furniture of the room is no less marvellous than
its hangings。 One turns from a harpsichord of vernis…martin to the clock； a
relic from Louis XIV。's bedroom in Versailles； on to the bric…a…brac of old
Saxe or Sevres in admiring wonder。 My host drifts into his showman
manner； irresistibly comic in this writer。
The pleasures of the collector are apparently divided into three phases；
without counting the rapture of the hunt。 First； the delight a true amateur
takes in living among rare and beautiful things。 Second； the satisfaction of
showing one's treasures to less fortunate mortals； and last； but perhaps
keenest of all； the pride which comes from the fact that one has been
clever enough to acquire objects which other people want； at prices below
their market value。 Sardou evidently enjoys these three sensations vividly。
That he lives with and loves his possessions is evident； and the smile with
which he calls your attention to one piece after another； and mentions what
they cost him； attests that the two other joys are not unknown to him。 He is
old enough to remember the golden age when really good things were to
be picked up for modest sums； before every parvenu considered it
necessary to turn his house into a museum； and factories existed for the
production of 〃antiques〃 to be sold to innocent amateurs。
In calling attention to a set of carved and gilded furniture； covered in
Beauvais tapestry； such as sold recently in Paris at the Valencay sale …
Talleyrand collection … for sixty thousand dollars； Sardou mentions with a
laugh that he got his fifteen pieces for fifteen hundred dollars； the year
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after the war； from an old chateau back of Cannes！ One unique piece of
tapestry had cost him less than one…tenth of th