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to the part which he played in the transactions of those times； and we
find an unanswerable proof of the esteem in which he was held by the most
exalted personages； in a letter which was addressed to him by Charles at
the time he was admitted to the Order of St。 Michael； which was； as he
informs us himself； the highest honour of the French noblesse。
According to Lacroix du Maine； Montaigne； upon the death of his eldest
brother； resigned his post of Councillor； in order to adopt the military
profession； while； if we might credit the President Bouhier； he never
discharged any functions connected with arms。 However； several passages
in the Essays seem to indicate that he not only took service； but that he
was actually in numerous campaigns with the Catholic armies。 Let us add；
that on his monument he is represented in a coat of mail； with his casque
and gauntlets on his right side； and a lion at his feet； all which
signifies； in the language of funeral emblems； that the departed has been
engaged in some important military transactions。
However it may be as to these conjectures； our author； having arrived at
his thirty…eighth year； resolved to dedicate to study and contemplation
the remaining term of his life； and on his birthday； the last of February
1571； he caused a philosophical inscription； in Latin； to be placed upon
one of the walls of his chateau； where it is still to be seen； and of
which the translation is to this effect：〃In the year of Christ 。 。 。
in his thirty…eighth year； on the eve of the Calends of March； his
birthday； Michel Montaigne； already weary of court employments and public
honours； withdrew himself entirely into the converse of the learned
virgins where he intends to spend the remaining moiety of the to allotted
to him in tranquil seclusion。〃
At the time to which we have come； Montaigne was unknown to the world of
letters； except as a translator and editor。 In 1569 he had published a
translation of the 〃Natural Theology〃 of Raymond de Sebonde； which he had
solely undertaken to please his father。 In 1571 he had caused to be
printed at Paris certain 'opuscucla' of Etienne de la Boetie ； and these
two efforts； inspired in one case by filial duty； and in the other by
friendship； prove that affectionate motives overruled with him mere
personal ambition as a literary man。 We may suppose that he began to
compose the Essays at the very outset of his retirement from public
engagements； for as； according to his own account； observes the President
Bouhier； he cared neither for the chase； nor building； nor gardening； nor
agricultural pursuits； and was exclusively occupied with reading and
reflection； he devoted himself with satisfaction to the task of setting
down his thoughts just as they occurred to him。 Those thoughts became a
book； and the first part of that book； which was to confer immortality on
the writer； appeared at Bordeaux in 1580。 Montaigne was then fifty…
seven； he had suffered for some years past from renal colic and gravel；
and it was with the necessity of distraction from his pain； and the hope
of deriving relief from the waters； that he undertook at this time a
great journey。 As the account which he has left of his travels in
Germany and Italy comprises some highly interesting particulars of his
life and personal history； it seems worth while to furnish a sketch or
analysis of it。
〃The Journey； of which we proceed to describe the course simply；〃 says
the editor of the Itinerary； 〃had； from Beaumont…sur…Oise to Plombieres；
in Lorraine； nothing sufficiently interesting to detain us 。 。 。 we
must go as far； as Basle； of which we have a description； acquainting us
with its physical and political condition at that period； as well as with
the character of its baths。 The passage of Montaigne through Switzerland
is not without interest； as we see there how our philosophical traveller
accommodated himself everywhere to the ways of the country。 The hotels；
the provisions； the Swiss cookery； everything； was agreeable to him； it
appears； indeed； as if he preferred to the French manners and tastes
those of the places he was visiting； and of which the simplicity and
freedom （or frankness） accorded more with his own mode of life and
thinking。 In the towns where he stayed； Montaigne took care to see the
Protestant divines； to make himself conversant with all their dogmas。 He
even had disputations with them occasionally。
〃Having left Switzerland he went to Isne； an imperial then on to Augsburg
and Munich。 He afterwards proceeded to the Tyrol； where he was agreeably
surprised； after the warnings which he had received； at the very slight
inconveniences which he suffered； which gave him occasion to remark that
he had all his life distrusted the statements of others respecting
foreign countries； each person's tastes being according to the notions of
his native place； and that he had consequently set very little on what he
was told beforehand。
〃Upon his arrival at Botzen； Montaigne wrote to Francois Hottmann； to say
that he had been so pleased with his visit to Germany that he quitted it
with great regret； although it was to go into Italy。 He then passed
through Brunsol； Trent； where he put up at the Rose； thence going to
Rovera； and here he first lamented the scarcity of crawfish； but made up
for the loss by partaking of truffles cooked in oil and vinegar； oranges；
citrons； and olives； in all of which he delighted。
After passing a restless night； when he bethought himself in the morning
that there was some new town or district to be seen； he rose； we are
told； with alacrity and pleasure。
His secretary； to whom he dictated his Journal； assures us that he never
saw him take so much interest in surrounding scenes and persons； and
believes that the complete change helped to mitigate his sufferings in
concentrating his attention on other points。 When there was a complaint
made that he had led his party out of the beaten route； and then returned
very near the spot from which they started； his answer was that he had no
settled course； and that he merely proposed to himself to pay visits to
places which he had not seen； and so long as they could not convict him
of traversing the same path twice； or revisiting a point already seen； he
could perceive no harm in his plan。 As to Rome； he cared less to go
there； inasmuch as everybody went there； and he said that he never had a
lacquey who could not tell him all about Florence or Ferrara。 He also
would say that he seemed to himself like those who are reading some
pleasant story or some fine book； of which they fear to come to the end：
he felt so much pleasure in travelling that he dreaded the moment of
arrival at the place where they were to stop for the night。
We see that Montaigne travelled； just as he wrote； completely at his
ease； and without the least constraint； turning； just as he fancied； from
the common or ordinary roads taken by tourists。 The good inns； the soft
beds； the fine views； attracted his notice at every point； and in his
observations on men and things he confines himself chiefly to the
practical side。 The consideration of his