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followed the King's death； in accordance with ancient custom； afterward
became a devout Christian and a steadfast and powerful friend of the
missionaries。
Dogs were； and still are； reared and fattened for food； by the natives
hence the reference to their value in one of the above paragraphs。
Forty years ago it was the custom in the Islands to suspend all law for a
certain number of days after the death of a royal personage； and then a
saturnalia ensued which one may picture to himself after a fashion； but
not in the full horror of the reality。 The people shaved their heads；
knocked out a tooth or two； plucked out an eye sometimes； cut； bruised；
mutilated or burned their flesh； got drunk； burned each other's huts；
maimed or murdered one another according to the caprice of the moment；
and both sexes gave themselves up to brutal and unbridled licentiousness。
And after it all； came a torpor from which the nation slowly emerged
bewildered and dazed； as if from a hideous half…remembered nightmare。
They were not the salt of the earth； those 〃gentle children of the sun。〃
The natives still keep up an old custom of theirs which cannot be
comforting to an invalid。 When they think a sick friend is going to die；
a couple of dozen neighbors surround his hut and keep up a deafening
wailing night and day till he either dies or gets well。 No doubt this
arrangement has helped many a subject to a shroud before his appointed
time。
They surround a hut and wail in the same heart…broken way when its
occupant returns from a journey。 This is their dismal idea of a welcome。
A very little of it would go a great way with most of us。
CHAPTER LXIX。
Bound for Hawaii （a hundred and fifty miles distant；） to visit the great
volcano and behold the other notable things which distinguish that island
above the remainder of the group； we sailed from Honolulu on a certain
Saturday afternoon； in the good schooner Boomerang。
The Boomerang was about as long as two street cars； and about as wide as
one。 She was so small （though she was larger than the majority of the
inter…island coasters） that when I stood on her deck I felt but little
smaller than the Colossus of Rhodes must have felt when he had a man…of…
war under him。 I could reach the water when she lay over under a strong
breeze。 When the Captain and my comrade （a Mr。 Billings）； myself and
four other persons were all assembled on the little after portion of the
deck which is sacred to the cabin passengers； it was fullthere was not
room for any more quality folks。 Another section of the deck； twice as
large as ours； was full of natives of both sexes； with their customary
dogs； mats； blankets； pipes； calabashes of poi； fleas； and other luxuries
and baggage of minor importance。 As soon as we set sail the natives all
lay down on the deck as thick as negroes in a slave…pen； and smoked；
conversed； and spit on each other； and were truly sociable。
The little low…ceiled cabin below was rather larger than a hearse； and as
dark as a vault。 It had two coffins on each sideI mean two bunks。
A small table； capable of accommodating three persons at dinner； stood
against the forward bulkhead； and over it hung the dingiest whale oil
lantern that ever peopled the obscurity of a dungeon with ghostly shapes。
The floor room unoccupied was not extensive。 One might swing a cat in
it； perhaps； but not a long cat。 The hold forward of the bulkhead had
but little freight in it； and from morning till night a portly old
rooster； with a voice like Baalam's ass； and the same disposition to use
it； strutted up and down in that part of the vessel and crowed。 He
usually took dinner at six o'clock； and then； after an hour devoted to
meditation； he mounted a barrel and crowed a good part of the night。
He got hoarser all the time； but he scorned to allow any personal
consideration to interfere with his duty； and kept up his labors in
defiance of threatened diphtheria。
Sleeping was out of the question when he was on watch。 He was a source
of genuine aggravation and annoyance。 It was worse than useless to shout
at him or apply offensive epithets to himhe only took these things for
applause； and strained himself to make more noise。 Occasionally； during
the day； I threw potatoes at him through an aperture in the bulkhead； but
he only dodged and went on crowing。
The first night； as I lay in my coffin； idly watching the dim lamp
swinging to the rolling of the ship； and snuffing the nauseous odors of
bilge water； I felt something gallop over me。 I turned out promptly。
However； I turned in again when I found it was only a rat。 Presently
something galloped over me once more。 I knew it was not a rat this time；
and I thought it might be a centipede； because the Captain had killed one
on deck in the afternoon。 I turned out。 The first glance at the pillow
showed me repulsive sentinel perched upon each end of itcockroaches as
large as peach leavesfellows with long； quivering antennae and fiery；
malignant eyes。 They were grating their teeth like tobacco worms； and
appeared to be dissatisfied about something。 I had often heard that
these reptiles were in the habit of eating off sleeping sailors' toe
nails down to the quick； and I would not get in the bunk any more。 I lay
down on the floor。 But a rat came and bothered me； and shortly afterward
a procession of cockroaches arrived and camped in my hair。 In a few
moments the rooster was crowing with uncommon spirit and a party of fleas
were throwing double somersaults about my person in the wildest disorder；
and taking a bite every time they struck。 I was beginning to feel really
annoyed。 I got up and put my clothes on and went on deck。
The above is not overdrawn； it is a truthful sketch of inter…island
schooner life。 There is no such thing as keeping a vessel in elegant
condition； when she carries molasses and Kanakas。
It was compensation for my sufferings to come unexpectedly upon so
beautiful a scene as met my eyeto step suddenly out of the sepulchral
gloom of the cabin and stand under the strong light of the moonin the
centre； as it were； of a glittering sea of liquid silverto see the
broad sails straining in the gale； the ship heeled over on her side； the
angry foam hissing past her lee bulwarks； and sparkling sheets of spray
dashing high over her bows and raining upon her decks； to brace myself
and hang fast to the first object that presented itself； with hat jammed
down and coat tails whipping in the breeze； and feel that exhilaration
that thrills in one's hair and quivers down his back bone when he knows
that every inch of canvas is drawing and the vessel cleaving through the
waves at her utmost speed。 There was no darkness； no dimness； no
obscurity there。 All was brightness； every object was vividly defined。
Every prostrate Kanaka； every coil of rope； every calabash of poi； every
puppy； every seam in the flooring； every bolthead； every object； however
minute； showed sharp and distinct in its every outline； and the shadow of
the broad mainsail lay black as a pall upon the deck； leaving Billings's
white upturned face glorified and his body in a total ec