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proclaim the most lovely of all the Dulcineas of Andalucia。 He
carried me up by boat and railway to Xeres； gave me a most terrific
headache； by dragging me out into the glare of the sun； after I had
tasted some half a dozen different wines； and went through all the
ordinary hospitalities。 On the next day we returned to Puerto； and
from thence getting across to St。 Lucar and Bonanza； found ourselves
on the banks of the Guadalquivir； and took our places in the boat for
Seville。 I need say but little to my readers respecting that far…
famed river。 Thirty years ago we in England generally believed that
on its banks was to be found a pure elysium of pastoral beauty； that
picturesque shepherds and lovely maidens here fed their flocks in
fields of asphodel； that the limpid stream ran cool and crystal over
bright stones and beneath perennial shade； and that every thing on
the Guadalquivir was as lovely and as poetical as its name。 Now； it
is pretty widely known that no uglier river oozes down to its bourn
in the sea through unwholesome banks of low mud。 It is brown and
dirty； ungifted by any scenic advantage； margined for miles upon
miles by huge； flat； expansive fields； in which cattle are reared；
the bulls wanted for the bullfights among other； and birds of prey
sit constant on the shore； watching for the carcases of such as die。
Such are the charms of the golden Guadalquivir。
At first we were very dull on board that steamer。 I never found
myself in a position in which there was less to do。 There was a
nasty smell about the little boat which made me almost ill； every
turn in the river was so exactly like the last； that we might have
been standing still； there was no amusement except eating； and that；
when once done； was not of a kind to make an early repetition
desirable。 Even Johnson was becoming dull； and I began to doubt
whether I was so desirous as I once had been to travel the length and
breadth of all Spain。 But about noon a little incident occurred
which did for a time remove some of our tedium。 The boat had stopped
to take in passengers on the river； and； among others； a man had come
on board dressed in a fashion that； to my eyes； was equally strange
and picturesque。 Indeed； his appearance was so singular； that I
could not but regard him with care； though I felt at first averse to
stare at a fellow…passenger on account of his clothes。 He was a man
of about fifty； but as active apparently as though not more than
twenty five； he was of low stature； but of admirable make； his hair
was just becoming grizzled； but was short and crisp and well cared
for； his face was prepossessing； having a look of good humour added
to courtesy； and there was a pleasant； soft smile round his mouth
which ingratiated one at the first sight。 But it was his dress
rather than his person which attracted attention。 He wore the
ordinary Andalucian capof which such hideous parodies are now
making themselves common in Englandbut was not contented with the
usual ornament of the double tuft。 The cap was small； and jaunty；
trimmed with silk velvetas is common here with men careful to adorn
their persons； but this man's cap was finished off with a jewelled
button and golden filigree work。 He was dressed in a short jacket
with a stand up collar； and that also was covered with golden buttons
and with golden button…holes。 It was all gilt down the front； and
all lace down the back。 The rows of buttons were double； and those
of the more backward row hung down in heavy pendules。 His waistcoat
was of coloured silkvery pretty to look at； and ornamented with a
small sash； through which gold threads were worked。 All the buttons
of his breeches also were of gold； and there were gold tags to all
the button…holes。 His stockings were of the finest silk； and clocked
with gold from the knee to the ankle。
Dress any Englishman in such a garb and he will at once give you the
idea of a hog in armour。 In the first place he will lack the proper
spirit to carry it off； and in the next place the motion of his limbs
will disgrace the ornaments they bear。 〃And so best；〃 most
Englishmen will say。 Very likely； and； therefore； let no Englishman
try it。 But my Spaniard did not look at like a hog in armour。 He
walked slowly down the plank into the boat； whistling lowly but very
clearly a few bars from a opera tune。 It was plain to see that he
was master of himself； of his ornaments； and of his limbs。 He had no
appearance of thinking that men were looking at him； or of feeling
that he was beauteous in his attire；nothing could be more natural
than his foot…fall； or the quiet glance of his cheery gray eye。 He
walked up to the captain； who held the helm； and lightly raised his
hand to his cap。 The captain； taking one hand from the wheel； did
the same； and then the stranger； turning his back to the stern of the
vessel； and fronting down the river with his face； continued to
whistle slowly； clearly； and in excellent time。 Grand as were his
clothes they were no burden on his mind。
〃What is he？〃 said I； going up to my friend Johnson with a whisper。
〃Well； I've been looking at him；〃 said Johnsonwhich was true
enough； 〃he's a an uncommonly good…looking fellow； isn't he？〃
〃Particularly so；〃 said I； 〃and got up quite irrespective of expense。
Is he aaa gentleman； now； do you think？〃
〃Well； those things are so different in Spain that it's almost
impossible to make an Englishman understand them。 One learns to know
all this sort of people by being with them in the country； but one
can't explain。〃
〃No； exactly。 Are they real gold？〃
〃Yes； yes； I dare say they are。 They sometimes have them silver
gilt。〃
〃It is quite a common thing； then； isn't it？〃 asked I。
〃Well； not exactly； thatAh！ yes； I see！ of course。 He is a
torero。〃
〃A what？〃
〃A mayo。 I will explain it all to you。 You will see them about in
all places； and you will get used to them。〃
〃But I haven't seen one other as yet。〃
〃No； and they are not all so gay as this； nor so new in their finery；
you know。〃
〃And what is a torero？〃
〃Well； a torero is a man engaged in bull…fighting。〃
〃Oh！ he is a matador； is he？〃 said I； looking at him with more than
all my eyes。
〃No； not exactly that；not of necessity。 He is probably a mayo。 A
fellow that dresses himself smart for fairs； and will be seen hanging
about with the bull…fighters。 What would be a sporting fellow in
Englandonly he won't drink and curse like a low man on the turf
there。 Come； shall we go and speak to him？〃
〃I can't talk to him；〃 said I； diffident of my Spanish。 I had
received lessons in England from Maria Daguilar； but six weeks is
little enough for making love； let alone the learning of a foreign
language。
〃Oh！ I'll do the talking。 You'll find the language easy enough
before long。 It soon becomes the same as English to you； when you
live among them。〃 And then Johnson； walking up to the stranger；
accosted him with that good…natured familiarity with which a
thoroughly nice fellow always opens a conversation with his inferior。
Of course I could not understand the words which were exchanged； but
it was clear