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However； when I had nearly made up my mind in his favour； a
creature appeared without any recommendation at all； except that
one of Dr。 Hepburn's servants was acquainted with him。 He is only
eighteen； but this is equivalent to twenty…three or twenty…four
with us； and only 4 feet 10 inches in height； but； though bandy…
legged； is well proportioned and strong…looking。 He has a round
and singularly plain face； good teeth； much elongated eyes； and the
heavy droop of his eyelids almost caricatures the usual Japanese
peculiarity。 He is the most stupid…looking Japanese that I have
seen； but； from a rapid； furtive glance in his eyes now and then； I
think that the stolidity is partly assumed。 He said that he had
lived at the American Legation； that he had been a clerk on the
Osaka railroad； that he had travelled through northern Japan by the
eastern route； and in Yezo with Mr。 Maries； a botanical collector；
that he understood drying plants； that he could cook a little； that
he could write English； that he could walk twenty…five miles a day；
and that he thoroughly understood getting through the interior！
This would…be paragon had no recommendations； and accounted for
this by saying that they had been burned in a recent fire in his
father's house。 Mr。 Maries was not forthcoming； and more than
this； I suspected and disliked the boy。 However； he understood my
English and I his； and； being very anxious to begin my travels； I
engaged him for twelve dollars a month； and soon afterwards he came
back with a contract； in which he declares by all that he holds
most sacred that he will serve me faithfully for the wages agreed
upon； and to this document he affixed his seal and I my name。 The
next day he asked me for a month's wages in advance； which I gave
him； but Dr。 H。 consolingly suggested that I should never see him
again！
Ever since the solemn night when the contract was signed I have
felt under an incubus； and since he appeared here yesterday；
punctual to the appointed hour； I have felt as if I had a veritable
〃old man of the sea〃 upon my shoulders。 He flies up stairs and
along the corridors as noiselessly as a cat； and already knows
where I keep all my things。 Nothing surprises or abashes him； he
bows profoundly to Sir Harry and Lady Parkes when he encounters
them； but is obviously 〃quite at home〃 in a Legation； and only
allowed one of the orderlies to show him how to put on a Mexican
saddle and English bridle out of condescension to my wishes。 He
seems as sharp or 〃smart〃 as can be； and has already arranged for
the first three days of my journey。 His name is Ito； and you will
doubtless hear much more of him； as he will be my good or evil
genius for the next three months。
As no English lady has yet travelled alone through the interior； my
project excites a very friendly interest among my friends； and I
receive much warning and dissuasion； and a little encouragement。
The strongest； because the most intelligent； dissuasion comes from
Dr。 Hepburn； who thinks that I ought not to undertake the journey；
and that I shall never get through to the Tsugaru Strait。 If I
accepted much of the advice given to me； as to taking tinned meats
and soups； claret； and a Japanese maid； I should need a train of at
least six pack…horses！ As to fleas； there is a lamentable
concensus of opinion that they are the curse of Japanese travelling
during the summer； and some people recommend me to sleep in a bag
drawn tightly round the throat； others to sprinkle my bedding
freely with insect powder； others to smear the skin all over with
carbolic oil； and some to make a plentiful use of dried and
powdered flea…bane。 All admit； however； that these are but feeble
palliatives。 Hammocks unfortunately cannot be used in Japanese
houses。
The 〃Food Question〃 is said to be the most important one for all
travellers； and it is discussed continually with startling
earnestness； not alone as regards my tour。 However apathetic
people are on other subjects； the mere mention of this one rouses
them into interest。 All have suffered or may suffer； and every one
wishes to impart his own experience or to learn from that of
others。 Foreign ministers； professors； missionaries； merchants
all discuss it with becoming gravity as a question of life and
death； which by many it is supposed to be。 The fact is that；
except at a few hotels in popular resorts which are got up for
foreigners； bread； butter； milk； meat； poultry； coffee； wine； and
beer； are unattainable； that fresh fish is rare； and that unless
one can live on rice； tea； and eggs； with the addition now and then
of some tasteless fresh vegetables； food must be taken； as the
fishy and vegetable abominations known as 〃Japanese food〃 can only
be swallowed and digested by a few； and that after long practice。
｛4｝
Another； but far inferior； difficulty on which much stress is laid
is the practice common among native servants of getting a 〃squeeze〃
out of every money transaction on the road； so that the cost of
travelling is often doubled； and sometimes trebled； according to
the skill and capacity of the servant。 Three gentlemen who have
travelled extensively have given me lists of the prices which I
ought to pay； varying in different districts； and largely increased
on the beaten track of tourists； and Mr。 Wilkinson has read these
to Ito； who offered an occasional remonstrance。 Mr。 W。 remarked
after the conversation； which was in Japanese； that he thought I
should have to 〃look sharp after money matters〃a painful
prospect； as I have never been able to manage anybody in my life；
and shall surely have no control over this clever； cunning Japanese
youth； who on most points will be able to deceive me as he pleases。
On returning here I found that Lady Parkes had made most of the
necessary preparations for me； and that they include two light
baskets with covers of oiled paper； a travelling bed or stretcher；
a folding…chair； and an india…rubber bath； all which she considers
as necessaries for a person in feeble health on a journey of such
long duration。 This week has been spent in making acquaintances in
Tokiyo； seeing some characteristic sights； and in trying to get
light on my tour； but little seems known by foreigners of northern
Japan； and a Government department； on being applied to； returned
an itinerary； leaving out 140 miles of the route that I dream of
taking； on the ground of 〃insufficient information；〃 on which Sir
Harry cheerily remarked； 〃You will have to get your information as
you go along； and that will be all the more interesting。〃 Ah！ but
how？ I。 L。 B。
LETTER V
Kwan…non TempleUniformity of Temple ArchitectureA Kuruma
ExpeditionA Perpetual FestivalThe Ni…oThe Limbo of Vanity
Heathen PrayersBinzuruA Group of DevilsArchery GalleriesNew
JapanAn Elegante。
H。B。M。's LEGATION； YEDO；
June 9。
Once for all I will describe a Buddhist temple； and it shall be the
popular temple of Asakusa； which keeps fair and festival the whole
year round； and is dedicated to the 〃thousand…armed〃 Kwan…non； the
goddess of mercy。 Writing generally； it may be said that in
design； roof； and general aspect； Jap