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goddess of mercy。 Writing generally； it may be said that in
design； roof； and general aspect； Japanese Buddhist temples are all
alike。 The sacred architectural idea expresses itself in nearly
the same form always。 There is a single or double…roofed gateway；
with highly…coloured figures in niches on either side； the paved
temple…court； with more or fewer stone or bronze lanterns； amainu；
or heavenly dogs； in stone on stone pedestals； stone sarcophagi；
roofed over or not； for holy water； a flight of steps； a portico；
continued as a verandah all round the temple； a roof of
tremendously disproportionate size and weight； with a peculiar
curve； a square or oblong hall divided by a railing from a
〃chancel〃 with a high and low altar； and a shrine containing
Buddha； or the divinity to whom the chapel is dedicated； an
incense…burner； and a few ecclesiastical ornaments。 The symbols；
idols； and adornments depend upon the sect to which the temple
belongs； or the wealth of its votaries； or the fancy of the
priests。 Some temples are packed full of gods； shrines； banners；
bronzes； brasses； tablets； and ornaments； and others； like those of
the Monto sect； are so severely simple； that with scarcely an
alteration they might be used for Christian worship to…morrow。
The foundations consist of square stones on which the uprights
rest。 These are of elm； and are united at intervals by
longitudinal pieces。 The great size and enormous weight of the
roofs arise from the trusses being formed of one heavy frame being
built upon another in diminishing squares till the top is reached；
the main beams being formed of very large timbers put on in their
natural state。 They are either very heavily and ornamentally
tiled； or covered with sheet copper ornamented with gold； or
thatched to a depth of from one to three feet； with fine shingles
or bark。 The casing of the walls on the outside is usually thick
elm planking either lacquered or unpainted； and that of the inside
is of thin； finely…planed and bevelled planking of the beautiful
wood of the Retinospora obtusa。 The lining of the roof is in flat
panels； and where it is supported by pillars they are invariably
circular； and formed of the straight； finely…grained stem of the
Retinospora obtusa。 The projecting ends of the roof…beams under
the eaves are either elaborately carved； lacquered in dull red； or
covered with copper； as are the joints of the beams。 Very few
nails are used； the timbers being very beautifully joined by
mortices and dovetails； other methods of junction being unknown。
Mr。 Chamberlain and I went in a kuruma hurried along by three
liveried coolies； through the three miles of crowded streets which
lie between the Legation and Asakusa； once a village； but now
incorporated with this monster city； to the broad street leading to
the Adzuma Bridge over the Sumida river； one of the few stone
bridges in Tokiyo； which connects east Tokiyo； an uninteresting
region； containing many canals； storehouses； timber…yards； and
inferior yashikis； with the rest of the city。 This street；
marvellously thronged with pedestrians and kurumas； is the terminus
of a number of city 〃stage lines；〃 and twenty wretched…looking
covered waggons； with still more wretched ponies； were drawn up in
the middle； waiting for passengers。 Just there plenty of real
Tokiyo life is to be seen； for near a shrine of popular pilgrimage
there are always numerous places of amusement； innocent and
vicious； and the vicinity of this temple is full of restaurants；
tea…houses； minor theatres； and the resorts of dancing and singing
girls。
A broad…paved avenue； only open to foot passengers； leads from this
street to the grand entrance； a colossal two…storied double…roofed
mon； or gate； painted a rich dull red。 On either side of this
avenue are lines of boothswhich make a brilliant and lavish
display of their contentstoy…shops； shops for smoking apparatus；
and shops for the sale of ornamental hair…pins predominating。
Nearer the gate are booths for the sale of rosaries for prayer；
sleeve and bosom idols of brass and wood in small shrines； amulet
bags； representations of the jolly…looking Daikoku； the god of
wealth； the most popular of the household gods of Japan； shrines；
memorial tablets； cheap ex votos； sacred bells； candlesticks； and
incense…burners； and all the endless and various articles connected
with Buddhist devotion； public and private。 Every day is a
festival…day at Asakusa； the temple is dedicated to the most
popular of the great divinities； it is the most popular of
religious resorts； and whether he be Buddhist； Shintoist； or
Christian； no stranger comes to the capital without making a visit
to its crowded courts or a purchase at its tempting booths。 Not to
be an exception； I invested in bouquets of firework flowers； fifty
flowers for 2 sen； or 1d。； each of which； as it slowly consumes；
throws off fiery coruscations； shaped like the most beautiful of
snow crystals。 I was also tempted by small boxes at 2 sen each；
containing what look like little slips of withered pith； but which；
on being dropped into water； expand into trees and flowers。
Down a paved passage on the right there is an artificial river； not
over clean； with a bridge formed of one curved stone； from which a
flight of steps leads up to a small temple with a magnificent
bronze bell。 At the entrance several women were praying。 In the
same direction are two fine bronze Buddhas； seated figures； one
with clasped hands； the other holding a lotus； both with 〃The light
of the world〃 upon their brows。 The grand red gateway into the
actual temple courts has an extremely imposing effect； and besides；
it is the portal to the first great heathen temple that I have
seen； and it made me think of another temple whose courts were
equally crowded with buyers and sellers； and of a 〃whip of small
cords〃 in the hand of One who claimed both the temple and its
courts as His 〃Father's House。〃 Not with less righteous wrath
would the gentle founder of Buddhism purify the unsanctified courts
of Asakusa。 Hundreds of men； women； and children passed to and fro
through the gateway in incessant streams； and so they are passing
through every daylight hour of every day in the year； thousands
becoming tens of thousands on the great matsuri days； when the
mikoshi； or sacred car； containing certain symbols of the god； is
exhibited； and after sacred mimes and dances have been performed；
is carried in a magnificent； antique procession to the shore and
back again。 Under the gateway on either side are the Ni…o； or two
kings； gigantic figures in flowing robes； one red and with an open
mouth； representing the Yo； or male principle of Chinese
philosophy； the other green and with the mouth firmly closed；
representing the In； or female principle。 They are hideous
creatures； with protruding eyes； and faces and figures distorted
and corrupted into a high degree of exaggerated and convulsive
action。 These figures guard the gates of most of the larger
temples； and small prints of them are pasted over the doors of
houses to protect them against burglars。 Attached to the grating
in front w