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grown old and gray。 The roads； the trees； thatched roofs of cottages and
homesteads； the ricks in farmers' yards。 Out…door work was abandoned；
horse…troughs at road… side inns were frozen hard； no stragglers lounged
about； doors were close shut； little turnpike houses had blazing fires inside；
and children （even turnpike people have children； and seem to like them）
rubbed the frost from the little panes of glass with their chubby arms； that
their bright eyes might catch a glimpse of the solitary coach going by。 I
don't know when the snow begin to set in； but I know that we were
changing horses somewhere when I heard the guard remark； 〃That the old
lady up in the sky was picking her geese pretty hard to…day。〃 Then；
indeed； I found the white down falling fast and thick。
The lonely day wore on； and I dozed it out； as a lonely traveller does。
I was warm and valiant after eating and drinking； particularly after
dinner； cold and depressed at all other times。 I was always bewildered as
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to time and place； and always more or less out of my senses。 The coach
and horses seemed to execute in chorus Auld Lang Syne； without a
moment's intermission。 They kept the time and tune with the greatest
regularity； and rose into the swell at the beginning of the Refrain； with a
precision that worried me to death。 While we changed horses； the guard
and coachman went stumping up and down the road； printing off their
shoes in the snow； and poured so much liquid consolation into themselves
without being any the worse for it； that I began to confound them； as it
darkened again； with two great white casks standing on end。 Our horses
tumbled down in solitary places； and we got them up；which was the
pleasantest variety I had； for it warmed me。 And it snowed and snowed；
and still it snowed； and never left off snowing。 All night long we went
on in this manner。 Thus we came round the clock； upon the Great North
Road； to the performance of Auld Lang Syne by day again。 And it
snowed and snowed； and still it snowed； and never left off snowing。
I forget now where we were at noon on the second day； and where we
ought to have been； but I know that we were scores of miles behindhand；
and that our case was growing worse every hour。 The drift was
becoming prodigiously deep； landmarks were getting snowed out； the road
and the fields were all one； instead of having fences and hedge…rows to
guide us； we went crunching on over an unbroken surface of ghastly white
that might sink beneath us at any moment and drop us down a whole
hillside。 Still the coachman and guard who kept together on the box；
always in council； and looking well about themmade out the track with
astonishing sagacity。
When we came in sight of a town； it looked； to my fancy； like a large
drawing on a slate； with abundance of slate…pencil expended on the
churches and houses where the snow lay thickest。 When we came within
a town； and found the church clocks all stopped； the dial… faces choked
with snow； and the inn…signs blotted out； it seemed as if the whole place
were overgrown with white moss。 As to the coach； it was a mere
snowball； similarly； the men and boys who ran along beside us to the
town's end； turning our clogged wheels and encouraging our horses； were
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men and boys of snow； and the bleak wild solitude to which they at last
dismissed us was a snowy Sahara。 One would have thought this enough：
notwithstanding which； I pledge my word that it snowed and snowed； and
still it snowed； and never left off snowing。
We performed Auld Lang Syne the whole day； seeing nothing； out of
towns and villages； but the track of stoats； hares； and foxes； and sometimes
of birds。 At nine o'clock at night； on a Yorkshire moor； a cheerful burst
from our horn； and a welcome sound of talking； with a glimmering and
moving about of lanterns； roused me from my drowsy state。 I found that
we were going to change。
They helped me out； and I said to a waiter； whose bare head became as
white as King Lear's in a single minute； 〃What Inn is this？〃
〃The Holly…Tree； sir；〃 said he。
〃Upon my word； I believe；〃 said I； apologetically； to the guard and
coachman； 〃that I must stop here。〃
Now the landlord； and the landlady； and the ostler； and the post… boy；
and all the stable authorities； had already asked the coachman； to the wide…
eyed interest of all the rest of the establishment； if he meant to go on。
The coachman had already replied； 〃Yes； he'd take her through it；〃
meaning by Her the coach；〃if so be as George would stand by him。〃
George was the guard； and he had already sworn that he would stand by
him。 So the helpers were already getting the horses out。
My declaring myself beaten； after this parley； was not an
announcement without preparation。 Indeed； but for the way to the
announcement being smoothed by the parley； I more than doubt whether；
as an innately bashful man； I should have had the confidence to make it。
As it was； it received the approval even of the guard and coachman。
Therefore； with many confirmations of my inclining； and many remarks
from one bystander to another； that the gentleman could go for'ard by the
mail to…morrow； whereas to…night he would only be froze； and where was
the good of a gentleman being frozeah； let alone buried alive （which
latter clause was added by a humorous helper as a joke at my expense； and
was extremely well received）； I saw my portmanteau got out stiff； like a
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frozen body； did the handsome thing by the guard and coachman； wished
them good… night and a prosperous journey； and； a little ashamed of
myself； after all； for leaving them to fight it out alone； followed