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is gone； and the steward is already threading the deck； asking the
passengers； right and left； if they will take a little supper。
What a grand object is a sunset； and what a wonder is an appetite
at sea！ Lo！ the horned moon shines pale over Margate； and the red
beacon is gleaming from distant Ramsgate pier。
。 。 。 。 。 。
A great rush is speedily made for the mattresses that lie in the
boat at the ship's side； and as the night is delightfully calm；
many fair ladies and worthy men determine to couch on deck for the
night。 The proceedings of the former； especially if they be young
and pretty； the philosopher watches with indescribable emotion and
interest。 What a number of pretty coquetries do the ladies
perform； and into what pretty attitudes do they take care to fall！
All the little children have been gathered up by the nursery…maids；
and are taken down to roost below。 Balmy sleep seals the eyes of
many tired wayfarers； as you see in the case of the Russian
nobleman asleep among the portmanteaus； and Titmarsh； who has been
walking the deck for some time with a great mattress on his
shoulders； knowing full well that were he to relinquish it for an
instant； some other person would seize on it； now stretches his bed
upon the deck； wraps his cloak about his knees； draws his white
cotton nightcap tight over his head and ears； and； as the smoke of
his cigar rises calmly upwards to the deep sky and the cheerful
twinkling stars； he feels himself exquisitely happy； and thinks of
thee； my Juliana！
。 。 。 。 。 。
Why people； because they are in a steamboat； should get up so
deucedly early I cannot understand。 Gentlemen have been walking
over my legs ever since three o'clock this morning； and； no doubt；
have been indulging in personalities （which I hate） regarding my
appearance and manner of sleeping； lying； snoring。 Let the wags
laugh on； but a far pleasanter occupation is to sleep until
breakfast…time； or near it。
The tea； and ham and eggs； which； with a beefsteak or two； and
three or four rounds of toast； form the component parts of the
above…named elegant meal； are taken in the River Scheldt。 Little
neat； plump…looking churches and villages are rising here and there
among tufts of trees and pastures that are wonderfully green。 To
the right； as the 〃Guide…book〃 says； is Walcheren； and on the left
Cadsand； memorable for the English expedition of 1809； when Lord
Chatham； Sir Walter Manny； and Henry Earl of Derby； at the head of
the English； gained a great victory over the Flemish mercenaries in
the pay of Philippe of Valois。 The cloth…yard shafts of the
English archers did great execution。 Flushing was taken； and Lord
Chatham returned to England； where he distinguished himself greatly
in the debates on the American war； which he called the brightest
jewel of the British crown。 You see； my love； that； though an
artist by profession； my education has by no means been neglected；
and what； indeed； would be the pleasure of travel； unless these
charming historical recollections were brought to bear upon it？
ANTWERP。
As many hundreds of thousands of English visit this city （I have
met at least a hundred of them in this half…hour walking the
streets； 〃Guide…book〃 in hand）； and as the ubiquitous Murray has
already depicted the place； there is no need to enter into a long
description of it； its neatness； its beauty； and its stiff antique
splendor。 The tall pale houses have many of them crimped gables；
that look like Queen Elizabeth's ruffs。 There are as many people
in the streets as in London at three o'clock in the morning； the
market…women wear bonnets of a flower…pot shape； and have shining
brazen milk…pots； which are delightful to the eyes of a painter。
Along the quays of the lazy Scheldt are innumerable good…natured
groups of beer…drinkers （small…beer is the most good…natured drink
in the world）； along the barriers outside of the town； and by the
glistening canals； are more beer…shops and more beer…drinkers。 The
city is defended by the queerest fat military。 The chief traffic
is between the hotels and the railroad。 The hotels give wonderful
good dinners； and especially at the 〃Grand Laboureur〃 may be
mentioned a peculiar tart； which is the best of all tarts that
ever a man ate since he was ten years old。 A moonlight walk is
delightful。 At ten o'clock the whole city is quiet； and so little
changed does it seem to be； that you may walk back three hundred
years into time； and fancy yourself a majestical Spaniard； or an
oppressed and patriotic Dutchman at your leisure。 You enter the
inn； and the old Quentin Durward court…yard； on which the old
towers look down。 There is a sound of singingsinging at
midnight。 Is it Don Sombrero； who is singing an Andalusian
seguidilla under the window of the Flemish burgomaster's daughter？
Ah； no！ it is a fat Englishman in a zephyr coat： he is drinking
cold gin…and…water in the moonlight； and warbling softly
〃Nix my dolly； pals； fake away；
N…ix my dolly； pals； fake aaway。〃*
* In 1844。
I wish the good people would knock off the top part of Antwerp
Cathedral spire。 Nothing can be more gracious and elegant than the
lines of the first two compartments； but near the top there bulges
out a little round； ugly； vulgar Dutch monstrosity （for which the
architects have； no doubt； a name） which offends the eye cruelly。
Take the Apollo； and set upon him a bob…wig and a little cocked
hat； imagine 〃God Save the King〃 ending with a jig； fancy a
polonaise； or procession of slim； stately； elegant court beauties；
headed by a buffoon dancing a hornpipe。 Marshal Gerard should have
discharged a bombshell at that abomination； and have given the
noble steeple a chance to be finished in the grand style of the
early fifteenth century； in which it was begun。
This style of criticism is base and mean； and quite contrary to the
orders of the immortal Goethe； who was only for allowing the eye to
recognize the beauties of a great work； but would have its defects
passed over。 It is an unhappy； luckless organization which will be
perpetually fault…finding； and in the midst of a grand concert of
music will persist only in hearing that unfortunate fiddle out of
tune。
Withinexcept where the rococo architects have introduced their
ornaments （here is the fiddle out of tune again）the cathedral is
noble。 A rich； tender sunshine is streaming in through the
windows； and gilding the stately edifice with the purest light。
The admirable stained…glass windows are not too brilliant in their
colors。 The organ is playing a rich； solemn music； some two
hundred of people are listening to the service； and there is scarce
one of the women kneeling on her chair； enveloped in her full
majestic black drapery； that is not a fine study for a painter。
These large black man