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That evening his Majesty went to the theater； and I was so much fatigued
that I would have gladly profited by the Emperor's absence to take some
repose； had not an acquaintance invited me to accompany him to the
convent of the Servites； in order to witness the effect of the
illumination of the town； which I did； and was repaid by the magnificent
spectacle which met my eyes。 The whole town seemed one blaze of light。
On returning to the palace occupied by his Majesty； I learned that he had
given orders that everything should be in readiness for departure two
hours after midnight； consequently I had one hour to sleep； and I enjoyed
it to the utmost。
At the appointed moment； the Emperor entered his carriage； and we were
soon rolling along with the rapidity of lightning over the road to Stra；
where we passed the night。 Very early next morning we set out； following
a long causeway raised through marshes。 The landscape is almost the
same； and yet not so beautiful； as that we passed before reaching
Vicenza。 We still saw groves of mulberry and olive trees； from which the
finest oil is obtained； and fields of maize and hemp； interspersed with
meadows。 Beyond Stra the cultivation of rice commences； and； although
the rice…fields must render the country unhealthy； still it has not the
reputation of being more so than any other。 On the right and left of the
road are seen elegant houses； and cabins which； though covered with
thatch； are very comfortable； and present a charming appearance。 The
vine is little cultivated in this part of the country； where it would
hardly succeed； as the land is too low and damp； but there are；
nevertheless； a few small vineyards on the slopes； and the vegetation in
the whole country is incredibly rich and luxuriant。 The late wars have
left traces which only a long peace can efface。
CHAPTER VI。
On his arrival at Fusina the Emperor found the Venetian authorities
awaiting him； embarked on the 'peote' or gondola of the village； and
advanced towards Venice； accompanied by a numerous floating cortege。 We
followed； the Emperor in little black gondolas； which looked like
floating coffins； with which the Brenta was covered； and nothing could be
stranger than to hear； proceeding from these coffins of such gloomy
aspect； delicious vocal concerts。 The boat which carried his Majesty；
and the gondolas of the principal persons of his suite； were handsomely
ornamented。
When we arrived at the mouth of the river we were obliged to wait nearly
half an hour until the locks were opened； which was done by degrees； and
with every precaution； without which the waters of the Brenta； held in
their canal and raised considerably above the level of the sea； would
have rushed out suddenly； and in their violent descent have driven our
gondolas along before them； or sunk them。 Released at last from the
Brenta； we found ourselves in the gulf； and saw at a distance； rising
from the midst of the sea； the wonderful city of Venice。 Barks；
gondolas； and vessels of considerable size； filled with all the wealthy
population； and all the boatmen of Venice in gala dress； appeared on
every side； passing； repassing； and crossing each other； in every
direction； with the most remarkable skill and speed。
The Emperor was standing at the back of the peote； and； as each gondola
passed near his own； replied to the acclamations and cries of 〃Viva
Napoleone imperatore e re！〃 by one of those profound bows which he made
with so much grace and dignity； taking off his hat without bending his
head； and carrying it along his body almost to his knees。
Escorted by this innumerable flotilla； of which the peote of the city
seemed to be the admirals vessel； his Majesty entered at last the Grand
Canal； which flowed between magnificent palaces； hung with banners and
filled with spectators。 The Emperor alighted before the palace of the
procurators； where he was received by a deputation of members of the
Senate and the Venetian nobility。 He stopped a moment in the square of
St。 Mark； passed through some interior streets； chose the site for a
garden； the plans for which the architect of the city then presented to
him； and which were carried out as if it had been in the midst of the
country。 It was a novel sight to the Venetians to see trees planted in
the open air； while hedges and lawns appeared as if by magic。 The entire
absence of verdure and vegetation； and the silence which reigns in the
streets of Venice； where is never heard the hoof of a horse nor the
wheels of a carriage； horses and carriages being things entirely unknown
in this truly marine city； must give it usually a sad and abandoned air；
but this gloom entirely disappeared during his Majesty's visit。
The prince viceroy and the grand marshal were present in the evening when
the Emperor retired； and； while undressing him； I heard a part of their
conversation； which turned on the government of Venice before the union
of this republic with the French Empire。 His Majesty was almost the only
spokesman； Prince Eugene and Marshal Duroc contenting themselves with
throwing a few words into the conversation； as if to furnish a new text
for the Emperor； and prevent his pausing； and thus ending too soon his
discourse； a genuine discourse； in fact； since his Majesty took the lead；
and left the others but little to say。 Such was often his habit； but no
one thought of complaining of this； so interesting were nearly always the
Emperor's ideas； and so original and brilliantly expressed。 His Majesty
did not converse； as had been truthfully said in the journal which I have
added to my memoirs； but he spoke with an inexpressible charm； and on
this point it seems to me that the author of the 〃Journal of Aix…la…
Chapelle〃 has done the Emperor injustice。
As I said just now； his Majesty spoke of the ancient State of Venice； and
from what he said on this occasion I learned more than I could have done
from the most interesting book。 The viceroy having remarked that a few
patricians regretted their former liberty； the Emperor exclaimed；
〃Liberty； what nonsense！ liberty no longer existed in Venice； and had；
indeed； never existed except for a few families of the nobility； who
oppressed the rest of the population。 Liberty； with a Council of Ten！
Liberty； with the inquisitors of state！ Liberty； with the very lions as
informers； and Venetian dungeons and bullets！〃 Marshal Duroc remarked
that towards the end these severe regulations were much modified。 〃Yes；
no doubt；〃replied the Emperor。 〃The lion of St。 Mark had gotten old；
he had no longer either teeth or nails！ Venice was only the shadow of
her former self； and her last doge found that he rose to a higher rank in
becoming a senator of the French Empire。〃 His Majesty； seeing that this
idea made the vice…king smile； added very gravely； 〃I am not jesting；
gentlemen。 A Roman senator prided himself on being more than a king； a
French senator is at least the equal of a doge。 I desire that foreigners
shall accustom themselves to show the greatest respect towards the
constituted authorities of the Empire； and to treat with great
consideration even the