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constituted authorities of the Empire； and to treat with great
consideration even the simple title of French citizen。 I will take care
to insure this。 Good…night； Eugene。 Duroc； take care to have the
reception to…morrow all that it should be。 After the ceremony we will
visit the arsenal。 Adieu； Messieurs。 Constant； come back in ten minutes
to put out my light； I feel sleepy。 One is cradled like an infant on
these gondolas。〃
The next day his Majesty； after receiving the homage of the Venetian
authorities； repaired to the arsenal。 This is an immense building；
fortified so carefully that it was practically impregnable。 The
appearance of the interior is singular on account of several small
islands which it incloses； joined together by bridges。 The magazines and
numerous buildings of the fortress thus appear to be floating on the
surface of the water。 The entrance on the land side； by which we were
introduced； is over a very handsome bridge of marble； ornamented with
columns and statues。 On the side next the sea； there are numerous rocks
and sandbanks； the presence of which is indicated by long piles。 It is
said that in time of war these piles were taken up； which exposed the
foreign vessels； imprudent enough to entangle themselves among these
shoals； to certain destruction。 The arsenal could formerly equip eighty
thousand men； both infantry and cavalry； independent of complete
armaments for war vessels。
The arsenal is bordered with raised towers； from which the view extends
in all directions。 On the tallest of these towers； which is placed in
the center of the building； as well as all the others； sentinels were
stationed； both day and night； to signal the arrival of vessels； which
they could see at a very great distance。 Nothing can be finer than the
dockyards for building vessels； in which ten thousand men can work with
ease。 The sails are made by women； over whom other elderly women
exercise an active surveillance。
The Emperor delayed only a short time to look at the 'Bucentaure'； which
is the title of the magnificent vessel in which the Doge of Venice was
accustomed to celebrate his marriage with the sea； and a Venetian never
sees without deep chagrin this old monument of the former glory of his
country。 I； in company with some persons of the Emperor's suite； had as
our guide an old mariner； whose eyes filled with tears as he related to
us in bad French that the last time he witnessed the marriage of the Doge
with the Adriatic Sea was in 1796； a year before the capture of Venice。
He also told us that he was at that time in the service of the last Doge
of the republic； Lord Louis Manini； and that the following year （1797）；
the French entered Venice at the exact time when the marriage of the Doge
to the sea； which took place on Ascension Day； was usually celebrated；
and ever since the sea had remained a widow。 Our good sailor paid a most
touching tribute of praise to his old master； who he said had never
succeeded in forcing himself； to take the oath of allegiance to the
Austrians； and had swooned away while resigning to them the keys of the
city。
The gondoliers are at the same time servants； errand boys； confidants；
and companions in adventures to the person who takes them into his
service； and nothing can equal the courage； fidelity； and gayety of these
brave seamen。 They expose themselves fearlessly in their slender
gondolas to tempests； and their skill is so great that they turn with
incredible rapidity in the narrowest canals； cross each other； follow；
and pass each other incessantly； without ever having an accident。
I found myself in a position to judge of the skill of these hardy
mariners the day after our visit to the arsenal。 His Majesty was
conducted through the lagoons as far as the fortified gate of Mala…Mocca；
and the gondoliers gave as he returned a boat…race and tournament on the
water。 On that day there was also a special representation at the grand
theater； and the whole city was illuminated。 In fact； one might think
that there is a continual fete and general illumination in Venice； the
custom being to spend the greater part of the night in business or
pleasure； and the streets are as brilliant and as full of people as in
Paris at four o'clock in the afternoon。 The shops； especially those of
the square of Saint Mark； are brilliantly lighted； and crowds fill the
small decorated pavilions where coffee； ices； and refreshments of all
kinds are sold。
The Emperor did not adopt the Venetian mode of life； however； and retired
at the same hour as in Paris； and when he did not pass the day working
with his ministers； rode in a gondola through the lagoons； or visited the
principal establishments and public buildings of Venice； and I thus saw；
in company with his Majesty； the church of Saint Mark； and the ancient
palace of the Doge。
The church of Saint Mark has five entrances； superbly decorated with
marble columns； the gates are of bronze and beautifully carved。 Above
the middle door were formerly the four famous bronze horses； which the
Emperor carried to Paris to ornament the Arch of Triumph on the Place du
Carrousel。 The tower is separated from the church by a small square；
from the midst of which it rises to a height of more than three hundred
feet。 It is ascended by an inclined platform without steps； which is
very convenient； and on arriving at the summit the most magnificent
panorama is spread out before you； Venice with its innumerable islands
covered with palaces； churches； and buildings； and extending at a
distance into the sea； also the immense dike； sixty feet broad； several
fathoms deep； and built of great blocks of stone； which enormous work
surrounds Venice and all its islands； and defends it against the rising
of the sea。
The Venetians have the greatest admiration for the clock placed in the
tower bearing its name； and the mechanism of which shows the progress
of the sun and moon through the twelve signs of the zodiac。 In a niche
above the dialplate is an image of the Virgin； which is gilded and
lifesize； and it is said that on certain fete days； each blow of the
pendulum makes two angels appear； trumpet in hand； followed by the Three
Wise Men； who prostrate themselves at the feet of the Virgin Mary。 I saw
nothing of all that； but only two large black figures striking the hour
on the clock with iron clubs。
The Doge's palace is a gloomy building； and the prisons； which are
separated from it only by a narrow canal； render the aspect still more
depressing。
At Venice one finds merchants from every nation； Jews and Greeks being
very numerous。 Roustan； who understood the language of the latter； was
sought after by the most distinguished among them； and the heads of a
Greek family came one day to invite him to visit them at their residence
on one of the islands which lie around Venice。 Roustan confided to me
his desire to accept this invitation； and I was delighted with his
proposition that I should accompany him。 On our arrival at their island；
we were received by our hosts； who were very wealthy merchants； as if we
had been old friends。 The apartment； a kind o