按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
nd is most carefully laid out。 Cuts in the solid rock； likewise heavy stone walls built up as a support； are used wherever necessary for greater safety。 It descends by easy grades and long zigzags for nearly five hundred feet to the top of the red limestone； where from wide shelves views may be obtained safely of the narrow cleft far down in which Hermit Creek flows。 Further descent is made by easy steps to a level stratum； which is traversed by the trail on its way to the river； and the Canyon on either hand seems rapidly to open out； revealing wonders of scenic beauty。 The northern extremity of the red sandstone under Pima Point is thus reached and on both sides of the river such a stupendous panorama is at once opened up that even superlatives cannot describe it。 Under Yuma Point； on the left； an ornately sculptured butte； already seized by Moran； Leigh and other discerning artists as a piece de resistance； compels the eye。
On this point one may linger for hours； if time permits； and as the changing lights bring into prominence different mural features； or the moving clouds cast their revealing shadows on first one； then another； of the temples and towers； the reverent beholder feels that he is on holy ground。 It is indeed superlative in color； in shadow； in form； in majesty； in variety and in general effect。
On the Plateau。 The trail from this point descends to the plateau and continues to the river。 A rest house is to be established providing ample accommodations both for eating and sleeping。 This will be the first provision near the river for all travelers；those who wish hotel luxuries and comforts as well as those who desire the experience of camp equipment。
All the way down； the strong scenic features of the Canyon remain in evidence； and the depths traversed by the trail but enhance their glory and beauty； as their outlines are projected against the perfect turquoise of the Arizona sky。 Before returning to the rim one may wish to take advantage of the opportunity to spend some hours exploring for himself the foot of the greatwalls near by； or studying the geological formations。
Mountain Sheep。 Perchance； also； one may see a band of mountain sheep； for now that they are so strictly preserved； a heavy penalty being exacted both by the state and federal governments for killing one； they are increasing in numbers。 One of their usual haunts for years has been in the canyons and ravines north of Shiva Temple。 It is not unreasonable to anticipate that they will often roam into view of visitors so near by on the other side of the river。
Hermit Trail Loop。 On the return journey； provision is to be made for a choice of several routes； viz： up the Boucher Trail； which is on the other side of Hermit Basin； along the Tonto Trail just above the river； westward to Bass's and up the Bass Trail； or eastward to the Indian Garden； and up the Bright Angel Trail which route is known as the Hermit Trail Loop。
CHAPTER XI。 From El Tovar To Bass Camp And Down The Bass Trail
Bass Station and Bright Angel Wash。 Leaving El Tovar （elevation six thousand eight hundred and sixty…six feet）； the road winds for over； five miles through the Coconino Forest； mainly following the railway track until Bass Station appears （elevation six thousand four hundred and seventeen feet）。 The road now enters a narrow defile known as the Bright Angel Wash； giving one a fine opportunity to learn the singular drainage system of the Canyon plateau； which； as has been explained elsewhere； is away from the Canyon for many miles。 The Wash is picturesque and rugged； the side walls occasionally appearing as bare masses of rock； and again covered with fertile soil on which grow great pines； also ferns； mosses and flowers。 The road is fairly easy； and the horses travel well。 Six and a half miles away； the Coconino （Kohonino） Wash is passed on the left。 A little further on； the Canyon widens somewhat； and a rude meadow； occasionally filled with rich and luscious natural grass； is crossed； after which the road makes a slight ascent to the plateau； and more open country is reached。
Over the Plateau。 From this point； the ride is diversified。 There are no steep hills； but the road aims directly for its objective point； taking the visitor through growths of pinion；from which the Indians gather the delicious pine nuts；juniper；from the crushed berries of which they make a sweet and refreshing drink；and over levels where rich grama grass grows side by side with the cactus； the amole and the yucca； brightened and vivified by the Indian paintbrush； sunflowers； lupines and scores of other gorgeously colored flowers。
Midway between Bass Station and Bass Camp； ten miles each way； the road passes a United States Geological Survey monument； which records the fact that here the plateau is six thousand three hundred and seventy…two feet above sea level。
The Surrounding Mountains。 On the journey； glimpses are had of the San Francisco peaks； and Mounts Sitgreaves； Kendricks； and Floyd； while； in the far…away west and south； the blue ridges of the plateau； descending to the lower levels； are clearly discernible。 To the north and west； Mounts Emma and Trumbull and other peaks of the Uinkarets appear like deep blue clouds on the horizon。 They lie on the further side of the Canyon； and are seen more distinctly from Bass Camp。
Hotouta Amphitheatre。 When fifteen miles from El Tovar； the first gaze into the Canyon is afforded at Hotouta Amphitheatre； a deep indentation in the walls of the south rim。 The road here runs close to the rim。 This amphitheatre receives its name from Hotouta； the son of Navaho； the last great Havasupai chief。 Hotouta was an enlightened Indian； friendly to the better class of whites； clear…headed and honorable in his dealings with them。
The Cisterns。 Thence to Bass Camp the drive is entirely through pinions and junipers。 About a mile before the destination is reached； the road passes 〃The Cisterns；〃 where the horses are watered。
Bass Camp。 Bass Camp consists of one small central building； containing a dining…room； sitting…room； kitchen and several bedrooms。 Around are tent…houses and tents for the further accommodation of guests； with stable and saddle…house； etc。 Almost immediately in front of the main building the trail begins。
Powell Plateau and Dutton Point。 Taking a seat at the head of the trail； let us now give our undivided attention to the scene spread out before us。 The predominating feature is the great uplift of the opposite wall； and the aggressiveness of its salient promontory。 Here is a break in the continuity of the wall of the Kaibab Plateau。 This break affords an immediate view of the highest portions of the Canyon's walls。 To the right of the break is the Kaibab Plateau； its highest portion being eight thousand three hundred feet above sea level。 To the left is Powell Plateau； seven thousand six hundred and fifty feet elevation。 The great point； nearest to us； was named Dutton Point； after the poet…geologist； whose monograph on the Canyon will ever be a memorial to his love of the place； his scientific accuracy of observation； and his poetic eloquence of description。 It is between Kaibab and Powell Plateaus that Bass's