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Camp at Blue Canyon。 The heat was fearfulit was the middle of August …and the sand made hard pulling for the horses。 It was late in the evening before we reached Blue Canyon。 The road was uncertain； so we camped on the rim above； leading our animals down； as best we could； to a Navaho hogan； where we thought we might get water and some cornstalks for them。 We got both； and then decided to hobble the animals and turn them loose in the Canyon； while we returned to our wagon above。 The wind had come up； and was blowing fiercely； so； in the dark； I chose for a sleeping place a piece of ground that was somewhat sheltered from it。 It was irregular； rocky and rolling； and as the wind continued to blow； the fine sand blew over and on to my face； while the coarser sand settled into my blankets。 It was not a refreshing and comforting night。
An Exciting Descent。 In the morning； when we went down for our animals； we found that they had broken through the flimsy fence of the Navaho； and had worked considerable havoc in his corn…patch。 The Navaho grumbled and gesticulated； and showed unmistakable anger； but I took the matter coolly and； after seeing the extent of the damage； quietly asked the head of the family： 〃Tu…kwe peso？〃 （How many dollars？） On receiving his answer； I offered to give him sugar and flour to that amount。 We became friends at once； and he invited us to bring our wagon down and spend the day with him。 As we were all wearied； we decided to do so。 To save going around by the wagon road； he showed us a quicker way of descent。 It was a sand bank not quite vertical； but as nearly so as ever any one drove down and lived to tell the tale。 So； harnessing the animals； we brought the wagon to the edge of this sandy descent； then； tying all the wheels securely； so that they would drag； all of us holding on to the hind axle and with weights trailing behind； the whole mass went over。 Though we threw ourselves into the sand and held on to our ropes； it was only by expert driving that the animals were kept from being crushed。
Experience with a Navaho Pilot。 The next day we pushed on to Oraibi； piloted by a Navaho。 When we reached the western side of the mesa； I decided to go up the foot trail directly to the village； so as to have water and corn fodder awaiting the animals； when they got safely around to the eastern side。 The Navaho got it into his head that the wagon was to be driven up the slope on to the mesa； an impossible thing without making a road。 There was a trail for horses and burros； however； and the driver yielded to the Navaho's guidance。 At last a sheer cliff was reached； up which only trail stock could possibly go。 There the party was； with four saddle animals harnessed to a wagon； in a cul de sac； consisting of a spot barely large enough for the wagon to stand on； a deep precipice on the right； a steep cliff ascending on the left； and the animals ahead on a sandy slope as steep as the one we had descended at Blue Canyon； a day or two before。 Fearful for the safety of animals and wagon； the only course was retreat。 A crude road was built； and； after tying wheels and trailing ropes on as before； with the help of a number of Indians who had come to look on； the whole outfit was lowered to the level below in safety。
An Unforgetable Memory。 Thus we had come over a large part of the historic Hopi trail； never designed or planned for a wagon； with our ambulance； and the memories of the trip； arduous though it was； linger in the mind； side by side with experiences of the Snake Dance； and other unforgettable and delightful remembrances。
CHAPTER XXI。 The Navaho And His Desert Home
The Navaho Reservation。 To see the Navaho in the Hopi House making silverware； or watch his wife weaving blankets； is one thing。 To see him on his native heath in the heart of the Painted Desertis another。 With the conveniences of travel now made possible by the excellent equipments of the El Tovar transportation department； any visitor who is not afraid of a strenuous trip may now visit these people with the minimum of discomfort。 Indeed； the Navahos and Hopis may be seen together； on the one excursion described in an earlier chapter。 The Navahos are the warlike nomads of the desert。 They occupy an extensive reservation in northern Arizona and New Mexico； that adjoins the Hopi reservation on the north and east。 They now number some twenty thousand souls； and are slowly on the increase。 They are proud； independent； and desirous of being left alone by the United States Government。
Punishment for Depredations。 In the early days； before they had learned the power of the new people who had flocked into the land； they committed many depredations upon Americans； and when remonstrated with were insolent and defiant。 So an expedition was sent against them； and large numbersthe major portion of the tribe were arrested and moved near Fort Bayardthe Bosque Redondoin New Mexico； on the Pecos River。 Here the conditions were so adverse that many scores of them died； and when； finally； they were allowed to return； it was an humbled people that wended its way back to the high mesa lands they had for so many centuries called their own。
Navaho Customs。 Linguistically； the Navaho is akin to the Apache and the Tinneh of Alaska； indeed； he calls himself Tinne。 In winter he lives in a rude shelter of logs and mud called a hogan。 In summer this is changed for a simple brush stack； which affords shade from the sun； and yet allows free course of the cooling air。 He is a polygamist； and lives with his one or more wives； as he can afford。 His chief industries are cattle； horse and sheep…raising。 The latter supply his wife （or wives） with the wool needed for blanket…weaving； which is her chief industry。
Navaho Superstition。 The Navaho is superstitious about several things： If any one dies in the hogan it is henceforth 〃tabu。〃 The body is burned and the building with it； and whatever fragments of poles； etc。； withstand the fire are regarded with distrust。
Dislikes and Fears。 Another tabu of the Navaho is his fear of seeing his mother…in…law。 Whenever she comes in sight； he disappears。 Technically he never sees her； and I have often had great fun in trying to bring them together。 Fish is another object placed under the Navaho ban。 He will neither eat； see； nor smell fish； if he can help it。
Essentially Religious。 He is an essentially religious being； and has a large number of ritualistic ceremonies。 He has many dances for various purposes； the most exciting of which is locally known as the HoshKon。 It is a healing ceremony。 Dr。 Matthews calls it the Mountain Chant。 It requires many days for its complete performance； and one of its final ceremonies consists of a wild fire dance which is thrilling in the extreme。
Superior Horsemanship。 But perhaps it is in his every…day horsemanship that the Navaho shows himself the superior man。 Oftentimes he introduces feats of skill on a horse into his ceremonies。 A few years ago at Tuba City； I saw a large band of Navahos unite with the Hopis in their dances and ceremonies of harvest thanksgiving。 The Hopi director of the dances was Mootchka； whose costume was as astoundingly frightful as he could possibly make it