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official recognition from the government and the authorization to erect a
bath house。 Once these preliminaries accomplished； the way lies plain
before the fortunate village； every citizen； from the mayor down to the
humblest laborer； devotes himself to solving the all…important problem
how to attract strangers to the place and keep and amuse them when they
have been secured。
Multicolored pamphlets detailing the local attractions are mailed to the
four corners of the earth； and brilliant chromos of the village； with groups
of peasants in the foreground； wearing picturesque costumes； are posted in
every available railway station and booking…office； regardless of the fact
that no costumes have been known in the neighborhood for half a century；
except those provided by the hotel proprietors for their housemaids。 A
national dress； however； has a fine effect in the advertisement； and gives a
local color to the scene。 What； for instance； would Athens be without that
superb individual in national get…up whom one is sure to see before the
hotel on alighting from the omnibus？ I am convinced that he has given as
much pleasure as the Acropolis to most travellers； the knowledge that the
hotel proprietors share the expenses of his keep and toilet cannot dispel the
charm of those scarlet embroideries and glittering arms。
After preparing their trap； the wily inhabitants of a new watering…place
have only to sit down and await events。 The first people to appear on the
scene are； naturally； the English； some hidden natural law compelling that
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race to wander forever in inexpensive by…ways and serve as pioneers for
other nations。 No matter how new or inaccessible the spring； you are sure
to find a small colony of Britons installed in the half…finished hotels；
reading week…old editions of the TIMES； and grumbling over the increase
in prices since the year before。
As soon as the first stray Britons have developed into an 〃English
colony；〃 the municipality consider themselves authorized to construct a
casino and open avenues； which are soon bordered by young trees and
younger villas。 In the wake of the English come invalids of other
nationalities。 If a wandering 〃crowned head〃 can be secured for a season； a
great step is gained； as that will attract the real paying public and the
Americans； who as a general thing are the last to appear on the scene。
At this stage of its evolution； the 〃city fathers〃 build a theatre in
connection with their casino； and （persuading the government to wink at
their evasion of the gambling laws） add games of chance to the other
temptations of the place。
There is no better example of the way a spring can be developed by
clever handling； and satisfactory results obtained from advertising and
judicious expenditure； than Aix… les…Bains； which twenty years ago was
but a tiny mountain village； and to…day ranks among the wealthiest and
most brilliant EAUX in Europe。 In this case； it is true； they had tradition to
fall back on； for Aquae Gratinae was already a favorite watering…place in
the year 30 B。C。； when Caesar took the cure。
There is little doubt in my mind that when the Roman Emperor first
arrived he found a colony of spinsters and retired army officers （from
recently conquered Britain） living around this spring in POPINAE （which
are supposed to have corresponded to our modern boarding…house）；
wearing waterproof togas and common…sense cothurni； with double cork
soles。
The wife of another Caesar fled hither in 1814。 The little inn where she
passed a summer in the company of her one…eyed lover … while the fate of
her husband and son was being decided at Vienna and Waterloo … is still
standing； and serves as the annex of a vast new hotel。
The way in which a watering…place is 〃run〃 abroad； where tourists are
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THE WAYS OF MEN
regarded as godsends； to be cherished； spoiled； and despoiled； is
amusingly different from the manner of our village populations when
summer visitors （whom they look upon as natural enemies） appear on the
scene。 Abroad the entire town； together with the surrounding villages；
hamlets； and farmhouses； rack their brains and devote their time to
inventing new amusements for the visitor； and original ways of enticing
the gold from his pocket … for； mind you； on both continents the object is
the same。 In Europe the rural Machiavellis have had time to learn that
smiling faces and picturesque surroundings are half the battle。
Another point which is perfectly understood abroad is that a cure must
be largely mental； that in consequence boredom retards recovery。 So
during every hour of the day and evening a different amusement is
provided for those who feel inclined to be amused。 At Aix； for instance；
Colonne's orchestra plays under the trees at the Villa des Fleurs while you
are sipping your after…luncheon coffee。 At three o'clock 〃Guignol〃
performs for the youngsters。 At five o'clock there is another concert in the
Casino。 At eight o'clock an operetta is given at the villa； and a comedy in
the Casino； both ending discreetly at eleven o'clock。 Once a week； as a
variety； the park is illuminated and fireworks help to pass the evening。
If neither music nor Guignol tempts you； every form of trap from a
four…horse break to a donkey…chair （the latter much in fashion since the
English queen's visit） is standing ready in the little square。 On the
neighboring lake you have but to choose between a dozen kinds of boats。
The hire of all these modes of conveyance being fixed by the municipality；
and plainly printed in boat or carriage； extortions or discussions are
impossible。 If you prefer a ramble among the hills； the wily native is lying
in wait for you there also。 When you arrive breathless at your journey's
end； a shady arbor offers shelter where you may cool off and enjoy the
view。 It is not by accident that a dish of freshly gathered st