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end； a shady arbor offers shelter where you may cool off and enjoy the
view。 It is not by accident that a dish of freshly gathered strawberries and a
bowl of milk happen to be standing near by。
When bicycling around the lake you begin to feel how nice a half
hour's rest would be。 Presto！ a terrace overhanging the water appears； and
a farmer's wife who proposes brewing you a cup of tea； supplementing it
with butter and bread of her own making。 Weak human nature cannot
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withstand such blandishments。 You find yourself becoming fond of the
people and their smiling ways； returning again and again to shores where
you are made so welcome。 The fact that 〃business〃 is at the bottom of all
this in no way interferes with one's enjoyment。 On the contrary； to a
practical mind it is refreshing to see how much can be made of a little； and
what a fund of profit and pleasure can be extracted from small things； if
one goes to work in the right way。
The trick can doubtless be overdone： at moments one feels the little
game is worked a bit too openly。 The other evening； for instance； when we
entered the dining…room of our hotel and found it decorated with flags and
flowers； because； forsooth； it was the birthday of 〃Victoria R。 and I。；〃
when champagne was offered at dessert and the band played 〃God Save
the Queen；〃 while the English solemnly stood up in their places； it did
seem as if the proprietor was poking fun at his guests in a sly way。
I was apparently the only person； however； who felt this。 The English
were much flattered by the attention； so I snubbed myself with the
reflection that if the date had been July 4； I doubtless should have
considered the flags and music most A PROPOS。
There are also moments when the vivid picturesqueness of this place
comes near to palling on one。 Its beauty is so suspiciously like a set scene
that it gives the impression of having been arranged by some clever
decorator with an eye to effect only。
One is continually reminded of that inimitable chapter in Daudet's
TARTARIN SUR LES ALPES； when the hero discovers that all
Switzerland is one enormous humbug； run to attract tourists； that the
cataracts are 〃faked；〃 and avalanches arranged beforehand to enliven a
dull season。 Can anything be more delicious than the disillusion of
Tartarin and his friends； just back from a perilous chamois hunt； on
discovering that the animal they had exhausted themselves in following all
day across the mountains； was being refreshed with hot wine in the
kitchen of the hotel by its peasant owner？
When one visits the theatrical abbey across the lake and inspects the
too picturesque tombs of Savoy's sovereigns； or walks in the wonderful
old garden； with its intermittent spring； the suspicion occurs； in spite of
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one's self； that the whole scene will be folded up at sunset and the bare…
footed 〃brother〃 who is showing us around with so much unction will；
after our departure； hurry into another costume； and appear later as one of
the happy peasants who are singing and drinking in front of that absurdly
operatic little inn you pass on the drive home。
There is a certain pink cottage； with a thatched roof and overhanging
vines； about which I have serious doubts； and fully expect some day to see
Columbine appear on that pistache…green balcony （where the magpie is
hanging in a wicker cage）； and； taking Arlequin's hand； disappear into the
water…butt while Clown does a header over the half…door； and the cottage
itself turns into a gilded coach； with Columbine kissing her hand from the
window。
A problem which our intelligent people have not yet set themselves to
solve； is being worked out abroad。 The little cities of Europe have
discovered that prosperity comes with the tourist； that with increased
facilities of communication the township which expends the most in
money and brains in attracting rich travellers to its gates is the place that
will grow and prosper。 It is a simple lesson； and one that I would gladly
see our American watering…places learn and apply。
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CHAPTER 24 … The Better Part
AS I watch； year after year； the flowers of our aristocratic hothouses
blooming behind the glass partitions of their conservatories； tended always
by the same gardeners； admired by the same amateurs； and then； for the
most part； withering unplucked on their virgin stems； I wonder if the wild
flowers appreciate the good luck that allows them to taste the storm and
the sunshine untrammelled and disperse perfume according to their own
sweet will。
To drop a cumbersome metaphor； there is not the shadow of a doubt
that the tamest and most monotonous lives in this country are those led by
the women in our 〃exclusive〃 sets； for the good reason that they are
surrounded by all the trammels of European society without enjoying any
of its benefits； and live in an atmosphere that takes the taste out of
existence too soon。
Girls abroad are kept away from the 〃world〃 because their social life
only commences after marriage。 In America； on the contrary； a woman is
laid more or less on the shelf the day she becomes a wife； so that if she has
not made hay while her maiden sunshine lasted； the chances are she will
have but meagrely furnished lofts； and how； I ask； is a girl to harvest
always in the same field？
When in this country； a properly brought up young aristocrat is
presented by her mamma to an admiring circle of friends； she is quite a
BLASEE person。 The dancing classes she has attended for a couple of
years before her debut （that she might know the right set of youths and
maidens） have taken the bloom off her entrance into the world。 She and
her friends have already talked over the 〃men〃 of their circle； and decided；
with a sigh；